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The rise of rosé

Even the French are learning to drink pink

Gallic palates are being tickled by a long-scorned shade of wine

There is more philosophy in a bottle of wine than in all the books in the world,” said Louis Pasteur, a 19th-century French chemist. For the French, wine is not just a drink or source of alcohol: it is a mark of civilisation, a subject of scholarship, a way of life. So why in the land of fine wines is rosé, the industry’s poor cousin, enjoying such a boom?

On the slopes of a forested hillside close to Mont Ventoux, the Domaine de la Verrière is one of the highest vineyards in Provence. Among the Chêne Bleu wines it produces, predominantly from hand-picked grenache and syrah, is a premium organic rosé. By July this year, for the first time, the estate had sold out of last year’s vintage. “Our rosé sales are now constrained by supply,” says Danielle Rolet, whose family owns the vineyard.

France is both the world’s biggest producer and consumer of rosé wine, a pale pink blend that snobs have traditionally scorned. In the second half of 2018 supermarket sales of red in France fell by 5% on the same period the previous year, and white was flat. Yet rosé sales were up by 6%.

Why the French craze for rosé? One answer is the change in diets. In recent years even the French have begun to eat less steak and other red meat, which they traditionally accompany with red. As a simpler—and, the purists would say, blander—wine, rosé is seen as a lighter drink, particularly when chilled in summer. It is especially popular among the under-25s, the age group most likely to be vegetarian, according to the Organisation Internationale de la Vigne et du Vin.

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