#每天读一点服装史# NEOCLASSICISM

1790 - 1800

NEOCLASSICISM

The fashions of the last decade of the 18th century reflected a time of upheaval and change.

It brought more informal dress, inspired by country rather than court styles, and influenced by revolutionary fervor in France.

Wrapping gowns in striped silk and painted chintzes gave way to printed cottons and plain cotton chemise dresses that could, at last, neckerchiefs and full-length dresses.

By 1800 white predominated.

The shape was a neoclassical columnar silhouette, with a simple, high-waisted dress.

There was little understructure except for an opaque linen shift and cotton underlap that echoed the shape of the gown, and sometimes half-stays to support the bust.

Hand-stitched seams were neat and unobtrusive.

Accessories added colorful highlights.

Extraordinary features emerged: like the audacious revealing of thighs through flimsy muslins, laced corsets worn on top of dresses, and red ribbon that may have signified veiled support for the revolutionaries.

SHOES

By the 1790s women wore slip-on “sandal shoes” with pointed toes.

Heels were getting lower and disappeared by 1800.

Pattens were still worn to protect shoes outdoors, especially over paint leather or brocaded silk shoes.

Lighter pump-style slippers of kid leather, striped silk, and silk satin were worn indoors.

However, straights -shoes that were interchangeable, without a left or a right -were usual.

Pink and yellow were popular dye colors, and there is a clear Eastern influence in shoes of the later 18th century that complements textiles such as the Indian cottons and Kashmir shawls of the period.

公元1790 - 1800年

新古典主义

十八世纪最后十年的时尚，反映了当时的动荡与变化。

随之而来的是更多非正式礼服，灵感来自乡村风格多过于皇室风格，同时也被法国革命热潮所影响。条纹丝绸与彩绘布料的包裹长衫，让位给了印花棉布与平纹棉衬裙，到最后，变成领巾与全长连身裙。

1800年被白色统治。

服饰形状是一种新古典主义柱状轮廓，伴随简约的高腰连衣裙。

日间装束，伦敦，1798年

除了不透明亚麻里衬与棉布重叠纱裙，再没有支撑结构在礼服里面了。这些可从裙装的形状中反映，有时胸部会有支撑。

手工缝合的线迹整齐而不引人注目。

配饰增加了色彩亮点。

显著的特征出现了：例如穿过薄纱显露的大腿，穿在连身裙外的蕾丝胸衣，以及能表示支持革命者的红丝带。

鞋履

十八世纪90年代，女性穿着尖头的“凉鞋”式单鞋。

鞋跟越来越低，直至1800年彻底消失。

套鞋依旧在外出的时候穿着保护鞋子，特别是那些上漆皮革与锦缎丝绸的鞋子。

轻便套式拖鞋以柔软皮革，条纹丝绸与缎子制作供室内穿着。

并且这些鞋通常是可以互换的，没有左右之分。

粉色与黄色是流行色，在十八世纪后期后期的鞋子非常明显受到东方元素的影响，包括纺织品，如印度棉布与克什尔披肩。