行走大同
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时间统领着风与水,抚过这片苍凉的黄土地,留下了沟壑万千也引来了不解情缘。
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敬天工
昔年凌霄万丈红,壁出千载雨亦朦。
只叹悬空清幽境,如今却已大不同。
蹊径独栈破高风,驻足接踵竞长龙。
叹服能工千秋匠,折腰天公染朱红。
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撩开历史的面纱,追溯几段,豁然发现云冈历经一个朝代,倾尽一个民族,于绵延山体凿出了一个不世传奇,我忍不住为眼前的神工鬼斧歌颂,雄奇伟岸丰腴宽肩,纯真质朴却又神态平淡,好似在历史的长河中众生都是尘埃,然而眼前的佛陀却超越这轮回恒在,顺着时光走过千里万里展现在眼前的风景,平静地审视一路风云变幻,以俯视姿态将智慧与慈爱洒向人间,人们只能抬起虔诚的头致以敬仰。
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风沙掳掠过千年,视线模糊百遍,佛像身体饱受到摧残,或断裂或蒙尘,或风化褪色,或被洗劫,在一次次荼毒中幸存,历经劫难,却仍然忍耐着这片黄土的苍凉,洞窟的阴冷,不改慈眉,不碍端庄,不变静盘于此的初衷,见证历史一代代人从眼前走过,成为过客。
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穹顶之下千佛在此聚首,永远定格在这一刻,沉默成为了永久的梵音。那些精雕细琢,华丽色彩虽然在时光的消磨下淡出视线,却依稀能辨出往日姿态,如果不是历史刻录代代相传,谁能想到眼前惊为天成尽数出自人手,那些巧夺天工构图严谨的匠人,究竟是怀着几多虔诚的信仰打造了这样一幅旷世长篇。多少本尊沉寂在幽暗中,与周围静谧的氛围凝固成为一体,偶尔几道光影闪过那是游客短暂的叨扰,不会久留。
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如果说龙门石窟是笔迹端庄的楷书代表,那么云冈石窟应该就是草书的代表作了,北魏崇视佛教,佛像早期高目长鼻,身形丰腴,以此来凸显鲜卑游牧民族的强大,全窟更是在国力全盛时期倾力打造。石窟规模虽不大,但刻画的精细程度令人惊叹不已,皇家开凿的石像多数身长长达十余米,有的双膝可容纳120人,绘以红色和绿色,均为植物花卉枝叶的汁液涂抹,六窟作为世界级石雕杰作,讲述了释迦诞生到成佛的故事,所有石刻一次成型,刀法娴熟,讲究空间对称,色泽保存尚可禁止拍照。
此外一些飞天壁画据说灵感源自敦煌。
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佛教传入,文化融合,云冈石窟可以说是一个时代艺术的代表。在一系列伟岸的石雕面前,叹服自己太渺小,无以言表的震撼,只能以拙劣的技巧怀着敬畏的心拍下了些许照片。
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或许是离雁门关太近,千百年来游牧民族和汉族在此碰撞交汇出了独特的人文和宗教氛围,佛像数量众多极其高大壮硕却不失精细,刻画从酒窝到牙齿应有尽有千姿百态,庆幸很多壁画在一次次战乱和风化中留存了下来,使我能够一睹真容。
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这里的人厚重而质朴,面相似佛一样丰润宽厚,带着些许粗犷的异域风情。正宗本地削面汤浓郁但不油腻,与豆制卤制千百年来一起滋养着这里的人们。
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大同,古都风韵,一个石刀雕琢出的城市,一个昔日的贵族,虽有些没落但遗风尚存。
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生活不止眼前的苟且,还有诗和远方的田野,故事还将继续…