#每天读一点服装史# HENRIETTA MARIA

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HENRIETTA MARIA

The daughter of Henry IV of France and Marie de' Medici, Henrietta Maria (1609-69) married Charles I of England in 1625.

She had grown up in the French court and imported grace, style, and imperial grandeur, along with a vast trousseau of clothes and jewelry.

Immediately, her youth, French background, and vivacious personality introduced a new sophistication to court culture, as well as the shock of the new.

Henrietta's high waisted gown has tabbed skirts and open three quarter sleeves over full chemise sleeves. Her wide collar is made of lace and pearls, and she wears a ribbon sash.

FREER FASHIONS

The queen made her mark through her dress sense, which was greatly admired and copied throughout Europe.

Severe styles went out.

Stiff brocades gave way to shiny, smooth silks, and strong, heavy colors softened.

Courtiers often wore the queen's favorite colors, which were orange, blue, gray, peach, yellow, and olive-green.

Henrietta abandoned the farthingale, even for formal occasions, and also the fashion for long stomachers that had pressed the farthingale flat in front to fan out behind.

Full skirts were instead supported by ornamental petticoats that were visible, since the fashion was to hold up the long overskirts when walking.

Henrietta introduced fresh new styles into the English court, among them a renewed love of pearls. She proudly wore these symbols of wealth in her hair, around her neck, and as double drop earrings.

TONING DOWN

Henrietta took less interest in fashion as her children and the political situation occupied more of her time and thoughts.

The civil war in England in the 1640s brought women's fashion to a grinding halt and women's wear became more subdued in both England and Fance.

High waists were lowered almost to natural level.

Charles I and Henrietta Maria

时尚偶像

亨利埃塔 玛利亚

法国亨利四世与玛丽 德 梅迪奇的女儿，亨利埃塔 玛利亚（1609 - 69年）于1625年与英国查理一世结婚。

她自幼在法国宫廷长大，带入了大批优雅，时髦，奢华皇室风格的服饰与珠宝。

即刻，她的青春，法国背景以及活泼个性掀起一股新的宫廷文化，新的震撼。

自由时尚

皇后通过穿着塑造了她的个人印迹，在欧洲被大量仰慕与模仿。

剧烈的风格出现了。

僵硬锦缎让位于闪亮，平滑的丝绸，以及被柔软化的浓烈，厚重色彩。

宫廷臣子们经常穿着皇后最喜爱的颜色，橙色，蓝色，灰色，桃色以及橄榄绿色。

亨利埃塔即使在正式场合也放弃穿着臀垫衬裙，还有时髦的V型长肚兜也是如此。

整款裙装现在被有型的装饰性衬裙支撑，当时的时尚是走路时提起过长的裙摆。

亨利埃塔将新时尚带到法国，并引领他们重新爱上珍珠。她将珍珠串佩戴在头发上，脖颈上，垂挂在耳朵上。

色调缓和

亨利埃塔减少了对时尚的关注，如同对待她的孩子一样，而政治局势则更多地占据了她的时间与想法。

1640年英国内战使女性时尚嘎然停止，英国与法国女装变得越发抑制了。

高腰线降低到了自然水平。

她崇尚自由，即便穿着花边，也搭配宽领口低胸线，正方形切口的领子。她摒弃僵硬的盘发，让头发更柔软的束起。