舌尖3.1.1

天亮的时候，

 In the morning,

黄有胜一家，已经在深山里走了两个小时，

 HuangYousheng’s family had walked for two hours in the mountains.

他们要去寻找一种特殊的石料，

 They were looking for a special stone,

这种石料可以用来制作当地怒族人非常喜爱的石板粑粑，

 it could be utilized to make the local Nu people beloved stone plaques

黄有胜今年六十岁，

 Huangwas 60 years old.

从记事起，祖辈们就以此为生。

The ancestors lived on for it as long as he can remember.

过去是因为道路艰险，

 In the past, because of the road’s hardship,

人们想要炊煮饭食，

 people wanted to cook meals,

只能就地取材。

they could obtain materials from localsources.

这里是云南丙中洛镇，

 This is the town of Bingzhongluo in Yunnan Province.

静水深流，

 The deep water is still flowing.

怒江第一湾于此蜿蜒而过，

 The First Turn of Nujiang River passes by.

石板是由当地特有的一种青黑色页岩。

Slate is made by a unique black-and-white(lividity) shale.

通常选取背阴背风的山崖上的石块，

 Stoneson the leeward shady cliff are usually selected.

用撬杆撬下后，

 Aftermoving it by means of a pinch bar,

将大小合适的石料用刀砍削修整，

 theappropriate stone would be cut and trimmed with a knife.

背下山再打磨抛光，放在火塘边烘烤一两个月，

 Thenpolished it and placed it on the edge of the fire for one or two months,

水分烤干后就可以使用了。

 andcan be use when it dried.

在整个怒江峡谷，

In the entire Nujiang Valley,

懂得这门技艺的人，已经不多。

there are a little people know this craft.

石板放在火上，

To place the slate on the fire,

受热后便从松软可削变得坚实密硬，

it would becomes harder when it is heated.

火烧不坏水浇不裂。

The slate remained inact after being burnedand drenched.

撒上薄薄一层炉灰，

 Sprinklea thin furnace ash,

这是祖上传下来的不粘锅的古法。

 is theancient method of the non-stick pan.

把野生甜荞粉倒在石板上开始烙制。

Pour wild common buckwheat on a slate and start to brand it.

在火的烘烤中石板渐渐有了温度，

 Theslate gradually had a temperature in the baking of the fire,

荞麦粑粑边缘的气孔中溢出焦香。

and burned scents overflowed from thestomata at the edge of the buckwheat.

粑粑熟了，

When it was roasted,

再蘸上一点蜂蜜，

then dripped a bit of honey.

这是来自怒江峡谷中的野生蜂蜜。

This is wild honey from the Nujiang Valley.

集万物于一山的峡谷地貌使得蜂蜜饱含清甜。

 The gorgeous landscape that sets everything in a mountain makes honey full of sweetness.

荞麦的焦香和野蜂蜜的甜润混合，

 The mixture smell of burned scents and sweet from buckwheat and honey

舌尖上就有了怒江夏天的味道。

leads your tongue taste the summer flavor of Nujiang.

这种起源于新石器时代，

This cooking method originated in the Neolithic Age,

用火加热石器的石烹方法是目前还能看到的最为古老的食物制作方式之一。

using fire to heat stone tools is one of theoldest food production methods that can still be seen.

今天，

Today,

在云南当地厨师中，

 amongthe local chefs in Yunnan,

石烹器形有了改变，

 the shape of cooking utensils has changed,

但仍然在创造着美味，

 butthey are still creating delicacy.

将石锅放在火上，

 To place the stone pot on fire,

空烧三十分钟，

 air burning for 30 minutes,

灌入熬制八个多小时的高汤，

 poured into the soup then boiled for more than eight hours,

再放入新鲜松茸，

 andput into the fresh matsutake,

受热均匀的石锅，

 theevenly heated stone pot

成为松茸的温润天堂，

become a moist heaven of matsutake,

他们的香气流溢出来，

its aroma overflows,

珍贵食材的活力被完美释放。

 the vitality of precious ingredients is perfectly released.

在南方许多民族当中，

 Amongthe various ethnic groups in the south,

火塘，仍然被广泛使用，

fireplaceis still widely used.

简朴的土灶，被置放于房屋的中心

Simple clay ovenis placed in the center of the house,

成为家中最神圣的区域，

 becomesthe most sacred area.

烟火升起，

 while the smoke rises,

便有了中国人烹饪美味的期许。

 the expectation of Chinese cooking emerges.

每年九十月份的农闲时节，都是薛辉明最忙的时候。

Every slack seasonin September is Xue Huiming’s busiest time.

在河南三门峡陕州，

In Sanmenxia, Shannxi, Henan Province,

薛辉明是当地有名的厨师，

Xue Huiming was a famous local chef.

应接不暇的红白喜宴，

Weddings and funerals nearly table,

常常让他难以应付。

which often made him difficult to cope with.

薛辉明的办法是砌灶

 Hisown method is to build stoves.

陕州，

Shanxi Prefecture,

地处黄河峡谷，

located in the Yellow River Canyon,

为了防风抗震，

in order to prevent wind and earthquakes,

当地先民掘地为穴，

the local ancestors dig caves.

至今仍然留存着，几百座坚固耐用的下沉式院落，

 Sofar, there are still hundreds of sturdy and durable sunken courtyardsremains.

这种奇特的民居就是地坑院。

This strange building is silo-cave.

地坑院里，

 In thesilo-cave,

正在砌一种叫做穿山灶的特殊灶台，

 an unique cooking stove called amountain stovewas being built.

这是薛辉明闻名乡里的绝技。

This is Xue's famous skill.

穿山灶这个东西，

 If  you use mountain stove,

你不管有几十桌，人不怕它，你就是炒个十桌二十桌都不怕它。

 nomatter how many of dozens of tables meal you need to prepare, it is a piece ofcake.

利用地坑院气流向上的原理，

Utilizing the airflow upwards of silo-cave,

七孔穿山灶呈斜坡状，

the seven holes penetrated the mountain stovein a ramp-like shape.

依次向上开七个灶孔，

 Openup seven stove holes in turn.

灶心相通，

The middle section of the stove opens to eachother.

它有个坡度，火走上坡，

 It hada slope for heat transfer upward,

一上一下，

once up and down,

那个火力拉力就大了，

 so that the fire power would be strengthened.

它那传热就传上去了，

 Its heat transfer is passed up.

关键后锅开不开就看这个锅了，

The pot of behind can boil or not depends on this key pot,

这个锅是最关键的锅。

this pot is critical.

忙了整整一天，

After a busy day,

给新砌的穿山灶贴上灶神，

affix the stove God to the new mountain stove

这个穿山灶盘起了，

means that this mountain stove is all done.

腰都弄得疼，

It hurts my waist.

这意味着穿山灶全部完成。

灶神是人们在锅灶边供奉的，

 Thestove god is the people who worship near the pan stove,

掌管驱邪避祸的神，

and the god blessed people from all evils.

对灶王爷的礼敬寄托着每一位厨人对平安幸福的希望。

The veneration of the stove god entrusts every chef’s hope for peace and happiness.

十月的陕州正值雨季，

October is the rainy season in Shaanxi.

到了夜里果然下起了小雨，

 In the evening, a thin rain began to fall.

新砌的灶虽然已经暖膛烘干，

 Although the newly built stove has been warmand dry,

但能不能经得住雨水浇淋，

 but it can stand the rain or not.

薛辉明还是有点担心，

 Xue is still a little worried.

小棚子要搭起来，拉个塑料布遮住就行了，

 Thesmall shed should be put up and covered with a plastic sheet.

先把小棚搭起来，

Putthe shed first,

塑料布弄长一点，一下拉到院子两头。

and pull the plastic sheet down to the backof the yard.

一夜过去，

After a night,

大灶安好，

 thestove was well-preserved.

天一亮，

When the sky was bright.

老薛赶紧开始准备，

 Xue began to prepare quickly.

搭档李建朝夫妇

 His partner Li Jianchao with his wife,

也早早赶到菜场，

arrived early in the food market

开始了婚宴菜品的挑选。

 toselect meat and vegetables of wedding dishes.

今天老薛准备的是扣碗条子肉、红油豆腐、小酥肉、杂烩菜、清炖三珍、高汤海带。

Today, Xue prepareda bowl of meat, bean curd in brown sauce,

small crispy pork, mixed leeks, stewed Sanzhen, and soup kelp.

烹饪方法不同，火候要求也不同。

Different cooking methods require differentheat conditions.

每种菜都要放在不同的灶眼上。

Each dish should be placed on a separatestove.

扣碗条子肉、糯米饭都需要大火蒸，

 Deductions of meatand rice and glutinous rice must all be steamed

放在第一、第二眼灶上，

 and puton the first and second stove.

第三眼的火候最强，

 Thethird stove has the strongest heat

能确保小酥肉的酥香里嫩。

 and can ensure the crispy tenderness of thesmall crispy meat.

再往上火力依次减弱，

Then the firepower goes down in turn,

依次用于炖、焖、保温等。

which is utilized to stewing, simmering, and heat preservation.

七个灶同时做出七道热菜，

Seven stoves made seven hot dishes at thesame time,

再配上三道凉菜，

added with three cold dishes,

这就是陕州有名的十碗席。

which are a famous ten-seat bowl in Shaanxi.

掌声有请新郎新娘入场，

Applause invited the bride and groom to gointo the court.

来，新人谢大厨，给大厨敬酒，

New people thanked and toasted the chefs.

有了穿山灶，

 With the mountain stoves in place,

即便是百余人的婚宴，

 even if the wedding banquet for more than 100 people,

薛辉明也从容不迫。

Xue Huiming took it easy.

自己的手艺给乡民们带来了快乐，

 His cookingskill has brought happiness to the villagers

也赢得人们的敬意。

 and has also won people's respect.

穿山灶最大限度的利用了热能，

Mountain stoves maximize the use of heat,

使用少量燃料也足以烹饪大量的食物，

 justuse a small amount of fuel is sufficient to cook a large amount of food.

充满了地坑院人的生活智慧。

filled with the people’s wisdom of life.

灶实现了对火的掌控。

The stove achieves control over the fire.

几千年前，

Thousands of years ago,

中国人还发现了水的转化，

the Chinese also discovered thetransformation of water,

并在世界上最早使用蒸汽来烹制食物。

and became one of the first to employ steamfor cooking food in the world.

蒸笼已经是中国人最常用的器具，

 Thesteamer has become the most common utensil used by the Chinese people. Thiscircular steamer,

这种用弯木做边竹条衬底的圆形蒸笼，

 whichis made ofbentwood and stripped bamboo,

将食物与水隔离，

 is utilizedto separate the food from the water.

高于沸水温度的蒸汽传导热量，

 Thesteam which heat is greater than the boiling temperature can conduct heat,

保持了食物的完整形状。

and keeps the original shape of the food.

蒸的过程中，

 Duringthe steaming process,

鲜味物质被保留在食物内部，

 the freshflavor is kept inside the food

营养成分也不受破坏。

and the nutrients are not destroyed.

无论菜肴还是面点，

 Regardless of dishes or noodles,

蒸的技法给中国人的餐桌带来了原滋原味的选择。

steaming skills have brought the original flavorto the Chinese people.

八百多年前的一天，

One day more than eight hundred years ago,

一艘宋代货船行船至此，翻覆沉没，

a Song Dynasty cargo ship tripped andoverturned.

在广东阳江附近海域发现的这艘“南海1号”沉船，

The ship “South China Sea No.1” found in thesea near Yangjiang, Guangdong,

让宋代饮食文化的繁盛，

made the prosperity of the food culture ofthe Song Dynasty

和铁锅的发展，浮出时光之海。

and the development of the iron pan.

我们从2014年开始发掘三年，

We started excavating for three years in 2014

总共清理了一百多吨的铁器。

and cleaned a total of more than one hundredtons of ironware.

主要是以铁锅为主。

 Mainlyiron-based.

考古队长崔勇，

The chief of the archaeological team, CuiYong,

三十年前在水下找到这艘沉船时，

 foundthe wreck under water thirty years ago.

最先触摸到的，便是水底沉船货仓顶上的铁锅