#每天读一点服装史# THE EARLY MIDDLE AGES
THE EARLY MIDDLE AGES
900-1100
As people began to settle into stable societies, different styles of dress evolved.
Charlemagne's Holy Roman Empire and the monasteries of Anglo-Saxon England recorded clothing details in illuminated manuscripts.
CharlemagneThe modern words "kirtle" (under-tunic) and "mantle" (cloak) originated from the Anglo-Saxon cyrtel and mantel.
Women wore a kirtle over a linen undergarment, and often an outer gown as well.
KirtleThere was still little difference between clerical and secular dress, all continuing to be based on Ancient Roman principles of draped rectangles.
Southern areas around modern Spain and Italy particularly wanted to show links with the former empire in Romanesque style.
Women covered their heads with veils according to Christian ideas of pious modesty.
As textile technology improved, people used more fabric in their clothing.
Estern silk from as far as China outstripped local products in complexity and beauty, making it highly prized.
MARKERS OF LUXURY
Jewelry shows the distinct medieval styles.
Gold and enamel jewelry had symmetrical Celtic patterns of the stylized animals favored by Anglo-Saxons.
#每天读一点服装史# THE EARLY MIDDLE AGESOther markers of a settled, richer society were women's fine embroidery, applied to hangings, copes (capes), and clothing, imports such as silk, as well as furs, kermes (red dye), and fine wools.
#每天读一点服装史# THE EARLY MIDDLE AGES中世纪早期
公元900年-1100年
当人们构建了稳定的社会秩序,服装的各式风格也得到发展。
查理曼的神圣罗马帝国与安格鲁-撒克逊英格兰修道院的手稿里记录了当时服装的细节。
#每天读一点服装史# THE EARLY MIDDLE AGES现代词语“kirtle”卡特尔(长袍下的打底衫)和"mantle“曼托(斗篷)的源头都来自安格鲁-撒克逊的词语cyrtel和mantel.
斗篷妇女会在亚麻内衣外穿着一件kirtle卡特尔,也经常会在其外面穿着外套。
凯尔特神职人员与世俗百姓的服饰仍然存在差异,所有这些后继的服饰都是以古罗马垂坠风为基础的。
现代西班牙与意大利周围的南部地区,特别希望展现与前罗马帝国风格的关系。
妇女们虔诚谦逊地依照基督思想,将面纱盖住头部。
#每天读一点服装史# THE EARLY MIDDLE AGES当纺织技术得到发展,人们使用更多面料在她们的服装上。
来自遥远中国的东方丝绸,复杂与魅力程度远超本地货品,从而广收珍视。
奢华标志
珠宝展现了独特中世纪风格。
黄金与珐琅首饰拥有被安格鲁撒克逊时代所青睐的凯尔特式图腾。
另外一些社会稳定的标志,例如富裕社会中女性的精美刺绣,它们被加在壁挂装饰,法衣和一般服饰上,进口物品例如丝绸,毛皮,胭脂虫粉染料以及高品质羊毛。
撒克逊珠宝