#每天读一点服装史# LA BELLE EPOQUE AND T
1901-1928
LA BELLE EPOQUE AND THE JAZZ AGE
Simplification and in particular the idea that “less is more” governed the development of fashion in the early 20th century.
The old way of dressing was only abandoned after a final extravagant flourish, which found shape in Paul Poiret’s colorful Orientalist designs and Lucile’s gossamer creations.
PAUL POIRET ILLUSTRATOR
PAUL POIRET'S DESIGN
The beginning of World War I accelerated the trend toward less restrictive clothing, as many women became used to wearing practical uniforms.
After the War the popularity of elaborate hairpieces and many layers of flimsy fabric diminished in favor of practical, shorter skirts and sweaters.
The figure of the static, hourglass woman was being replaced by the energetic, boyish “flapper.”
Always on the move — either dancing the night away or racing around in an automobile — the new style represented youth, fashion, and fun.
THE SUNTAN ERA
Men and women increasingly revealed their bodies, as clothes shrank and became less structured.
The fashionable set went to Palm Beach and Malibu in the US, or the Riviera in France, to acquire a suntan and to flaunt their beach pajamas and summer suits.
Different outerwear also meant changes to previously restrictive undergarments — fewer pieces of less-rigid underwear became possible.
New designers were particularly adept at picking up the trend toward increased movement and practicality in fashion.
French designers Chanel and Patou both started their Houses just before World War I, and promoted clothes for the active woman, in which knitwear featured prominently.
NEW ICONS
Royalty and aristocracy still played a significant role in setting trends.
In Britain, Prince Edward initiated and popularized new styles.
PRINCE OF EDWARD
Following his investiture as Prince of Wales in 1910, the 16-year-old heir to the throne soon became a major fashion icon, accelerating the move toward less structured garments.
He also popularized the use of garments such as Fair Isle knitted vests and plus fours off the golf course.
With the rise of Hollywood during the second decade of the century, movie stars such as Douglas Fairbanks, Rudolph Valentino, and Louise Brooks began to supplant high-society figures in setting trends.
DOUGLAS FAIRBANKS
1901-1928
美好时代与爵士时代
二十世纪初崇尚的简单化与“少即是多”的理念在时尚圈得到发展。
旧式穿衣方式在经历最后奢靡的繁荣之后，才被抛弃。这些我们可以从保罗 博雷特的多彩东方主义设计与露西弗的薄网纱设计中一见端倪。
PAUL POIRET'S ILLUSTATOR
PAUL POIRET'S OPERA COAT
第一次世界大战的开始加速了服饰潮流往更多限制的趋势走去，女性开始越来越习惯穿着实用制服。战争之后，精致的发型与多层次薄纱裙减少了，取而代之是更短的裙子与毛衣。
僵硬的沙漏女性身形被充满活力，男孩式的“新潮女郎”所取代。
永恒的移动，不论是在夜里跳舞还是在车里赛车，新风格代表着青春，时髦与乐趣。
晒黑新时代
男性与女性越来越多地袒露他们的身体，例如布料越用越少，结构也越来越简单。
时髦人士来到了美国的棕榈滩和马利布，还有法国的里维埃拉，为了晒黑他们的皮肤，并且能穿上沙滩睡衣与夏季套装。
不同的外衣出现也意味着之前受限制的内衣也在发生变化，更少的刚性固定内衣成为可能。
新新设计师特别擅长提升时尚中的运动与实用性。
法国设计师香奈儿与巴度同时在第一次世界大战前开始了他们的工作室，并为活跃的女性顾客提供服饰，其中针织品尤为突出。
新偶像
贵族与统治阶层仍然在制定趋势方面扮演了重要角色。
在英国，爱德华王子发起与普及了新的风格。
PRINCE OF EDWARD
在1910年威尔士亲王授权仪式之后，这位16岁的王位继承人迅速成为主要的时尚偶像，并且加快了对较少结构性服饰的发展。
他还普及了例如费尔岛杂色图案针织背心，以及高尔夫球裤等。
随着好莱坞在本世纪二十年代兴起，一些电影明星诸如道格拉斯 费尔班克斯，鲁道夫 瓦伦蒂诺，还有路易斯 布鲁克斯等开始取代高阶层人士领导时尚潮流。
DOUGLAS FAIRBANKS PLAY ZORRO
