南州六月荔枝丹 贾祖璋 Nanl Zhoul Liuh Yue
Jiarx Zux Zhagtg Nanl Zhoul Liuh Yue Liizhim Dany
Youunian shih zhiw zhidaol liizhigan d ket h rou doushi zogheesee d. Shag l hiaoxue. Laaoshiy giagshoudc Bai Ju Yiid d 《Liizhim Tuy Xul》, duk dao "ket ru hog zegy, mop ru ziys xiaoy, ragc rou yigtj bai ru bigs xues, jiagsn yes ganb suanh ru lihj laohn." Srizai wwufas livjiej, liizhim navli hui s hhogse d! Liizhim rou xiagr bigxues naayag jebai, bushi geg kevguai ma? Xiagl laaoshiy ttichu yyiwenk, laaoshiy y mmeiyou jianp goz xianf liizhim, wwufas sho mmigbai, drihao buliaaoliaaozhi. Giaru s sianzai, laaoshiy zugran mmeiyou jianp goz xianf liizhim, y kevyiw zhao chu kexue d ziliao, gei yooudian zuan neugiaojian d hiaoxoesheg gieshikj mmigbai bak.
Bai Ju Yiid yog bivyukx d bivfas lai meaoxiey liizhim d xxigtaix, ddiquet y you buzzuzhicyu. Zegy s sizhiwuu, sizhiwuu hoarun, liizhim ket que s cucaoc d. Yog govsyuxoe d syuyuk lai sho, liizhim ket biaaomian you xiixiao d kuaiizhuagb lieepian, haaoxiagw guijiah, teechegw guilieepiaan. Lieepian zhogyagl you tuki buufen, yooude jianruij ru cij, zye jiauzod pian fegt. Lieepian daaxiao shumib, pian fegt jianb pig, dou yin pnzhogc d butog erw gew yiib.
Cregshuhc d liizhim, daadosyu s shenhhogsee ho zivse. Sheg zai shum tou, cog yvanchul dagran kan buqigs taw ket mian d gouuzao, driyou hhogse yiigruz yanvlianyz, yinerw ba taw bi zod "jiagyh nag", "hhogxigh", "shanhuts zhut", dou hen bizhen. Zyiyu zhegd zhumz shum yivzhit cregpian syulin, na jiu chegwei "fei yanhh yux heg tian" "hog yun gih wan chogb" d xuaanlib gigse l. Liizhim d cregshuhc, Gvagdogl s si yue siaxunhr dao qih yue, Ffujianl s liuh yue siaxunhr dao bah yue, dou yiw qih yue wei syegqi, "Nanl Zhoul liuh yue liizhim dany" zhid d s yinlih liuh yue, zyegdag yyaglih qih yue. Liizhim y you daanhhogsee d, ru Gvagdogl chan d "san yue hog" h "guimh lioy" deg. Youh you huag licz, daanhoagsee erw lue dai daanhog. Liizhim chegds xinzag xigb, lvanyoanxxig ho yoanxigb, togchagw dic bul da, digvduanz shaow xiao. Dic bul zhouweil weiweib tuki, chegwei gom jianpb; yooude yibian gao, yibian dib. Digvduanz jiaok gom digp, hunsz yuanb ho jianb yuanb. Liiagce cog gom digp dao dic bul you yi tiao gous, jiauzod ffeghhesian, xianh yind sui pnzhogc erw butog. Jiuhc jiizaij zhog hhaiyou yixie xiqib d pnzhogc, ru xiichag ru zhid xigb d "log yap", yuanb xiao ru zhut d "zhenzhut", yinwei queshao jiggis ziazhir, sianzai yivjig joezhogc l.
Liizhim daaxiao, togchagw s zrijigz san si llimi, zhogb shihg do keq dao eershihg do keq. Liuushihg neandair, Gvagdogl diaucha ddezhi, you ehdanf licz h digxiagc da licz, zhogb daz si wuh shihg keq. Hhaiyou Siichuans Hhejiags chan d "nanm mum yec", 《Siichuans govshum leagzhogc ttupuk》 sho taw zhogb srijiuh keq zovyoul, 《Zhoggo govshum zaipeit xue》ze sho da d zhogb liuushihg keq. Sovweikc "mop ru ziys xiaoy", s zhid ket nei gintiet ket d neiibil d bbaise bbomop. Sho taw "ru ziys xiaoy", s ba ket neiibil d huaweny wuk zo mop d huaweny l. Migh dair Xuz Boq you yi shoup 《Yogk Liizhim Mop》 shikc, miaaoxiey chi liizhim shih ba ket h mop regd zai diishag, haaosirx "yigs yigs hec banc feg qian lo, pian pian taom huac yus hou jiaor", s kuazhagq d shofas.
Liizhim d rou da doshuh bbaise ban touumigh, sho taw "yigtj bai ru bigs xues", wwanquan zyegquet. Yooude ze weib dai hoagse. cog zriwut xue d guandian kan, taw bushi govrou, errshi zhogczi waiimian d cegm mop fayup erw cheg d, yig chegw zod jiar zhogc pi. Zhenzheg d govrou daushi qanmian sho d leantog govket regdiao d na yi cegm mop. Liizhim rou d xiibaobii teebie boc, sovyiw ruukou yibanb dou buliuz zhazisz. Weik tianp weib suanh, syiyib yu shegshikp. Yooude chuny tianp. Zaaoshuhc pnzhogc ze suanh weik jiaow qiag. Liizhim syaiganw ho hogganw, rou jiu cheg hhoghhese, wwanquan shiqu jebai d miaanmaor.
Liizhim bu naid zyucag, zyegru Bai Ju Yiid sho d: "yi ri erw se biand, erh ri erw xiagc biand, san ri erw weik biand, si wuh ri wai, se xiagc weik jinb qu yiwy." Xian jig yyanjiud zyegshib, wendu baaochid zai 1 ℃ dao 5 ℃, ke zyucag sanshihg tian zovyoul. Hai yig zinyibuu syefas yyanchag zyucag qi, yivliiyyu cragtuzl yuunshuj, yinwei liizhim bu naid zyucag, guvdair gogtiglc xiag chi liizhim, ziuyao pai ren jianchegz feiqif cog nnanfag yuanz sog Chag’an ho Looyagh, gei rrenmin zaucheg xuvdo tugku. Tagl Migh Huagj weiile trogxigxy Yagm Guiifeirz, jiu ganw goz zyeyag d shix, Tagl dair Duml Muf shikc yun: "Chag An huiz wagp xiuyh cheg duit, shan digp qianh menm cih dih kai. Yi qif hog chent feirz zi xiaox, wu ren zhi s licz zhim lai." Ziushi dui zye jianw shix d craofegk.
Liizhim d hem ziushi zhogczi, cragyoanxxig, biaaomian guaghuas, zogheesee, sxaoshuh pnzhogc wei lioose. Youliagb d liizhim, zhogczi fayup buquan, xxigzhuagb hen xiao, you sirx digxiagc, y jiaok jiaoh hem. Sianzai Haainanl daot you wu hem liizhim, hem jiu geegjiad tuiihuad l.
Liizhim huaqi s erh yue chuh dao si yue chuh, zaaowanh sui pnzhogc erw butog. Gvagdogl you shuag jiic liizhim, yi nian kaihuac liag cih. Youh you siijiic liizhim, yi nian kaihuac si cih zh do. Huac xigb xiao, lioobbaisee ho daanhoagsee, bu yauyan. Huac fen ccixiog, jinw jjisxaosyu pnzhogc you wwanquan huac. Ccixiog huac wagvwagz bu ttogshih kaifagd, yib xvanzed syidag d pnzhogc huns zaim zai yiki, yiw zegjiad syoufenw d jihui. Yi g liizhim huaxul, sheghuac ke you yi erh qianh doc, danw jieshib zog zai yi baih yivxia, sovyiw you "liizhim shihg huac yi zi" d yaanyuk. Liizhim huac do, huaqi youh chag, s yi zhogc zhugyao d mif yuans zriwut.
Liizhim yoanchan yu w go, s w go d teechan. Haainanl daot h Leanjiags you yevsheg d liizhim lin, ke wei w go s yoantrandii d mmigzhegy. Jud jiizaij, Nanl Yueq Wag Weijg Tort ceg xiagl Han Gao Zux zingogt liizhim, zzujianp dagshih Gvagdogl yih you liizhim. Tawde zaipeit liishihl, jiu cog naage srihouh suaanki, y yih zai erh qianh nian yivshag l. Tagl dair dui Siichuans liizhim do you jiishuk. Ziicog Cail Xiagdz d 《Liizhim Puk》(1059) cregshu yivhou, Ffujianl liizhim y wei so zhugship. Gvagxil h Yonnanl y chan liizhim, que you shao you ren shoki.
Guvdair jiagk liizhim d shu, baoko Cail Xiagdz d zai nei, sianzai zhidaol d gugyou srisan zhogc, yiw jii Ffujianl so chan d wei do, syagcun bah zhogc; jiizaij Gvagdogl so chan d gincun yi zhogc. Qigs chuh Chenl Digjt yi puk, ze dui Chuans, Yuel, Minl san shegw so chan dou you jiizaij. Cail puk bujinw s w go, y s syijiel d govshum zhix zhog, zyuzo neandair zuiizaoh d yi bul. Neiirog baoko liizhim d trandi, shegtaix, gogyog, jiagogm, yuunxiaoj yivjiw yoouguan liizhim d sxishix, big jiizaij l liizhim d sansrieer g pnzhogc. Qqizhog "chenl ziys" yi zhogc sianzai zai rregran gvagwei zaipeit. "Sogl gog liizhim" sianmig "Sogl jia xiagc", you lao shum yi zhumz, shagw shegzhag zai Pputianl Sogl shirr ccitag li, yiran meiw nian kaihuac jieshib. Zye zhumz qianh nian guh shum geg zuz zhenxixz.
Liizhim s yaareedaii govshum, xigx xix wennuan, Cregdul, Ffuzhoul s taw shegzhag d beil xianlj. Han Wuj Dij ceg zhud Fudc Licz Gogl, ba liizhim yyizhimp dao Crag’an, mmeiyou zaim hos, qiannu yu yagvhu d ren, zigran dui tamen shids yiw jjixigj. Sogl Huiy Zogx shih, Ffujianl "yiw xiao zhumz jiey shib zher zhidb wat qim zhog, hagj hais zhit quel xia, yic zhimp Xuand He Dianm". Huiy Zogx hieshikc chuixukx sho: "mib yic zao huad chu Minl shan, jinq yuq xinb zaim licz zhim dany." Srijiisyag bugoz dagnian cregshuhc yi cih erryih. Migh dair Wen Zhegz Migh you 《Xinb Licz Pianc》shikc, sho Cragshuhc Gu shirr zhogc hos l gih zhumz, "xianrr ren ben s hais shan zir, cog ci jiags xiaglc yiiw megc niemm." Danw jiujigw hos l doshao nian, big wu siawen. Sianzai kexue fadaz, shirz liizhim beil yic, jiaglai yevxu bushi wwanquan buke yooude shix.
W go ffuyuanr gvagkob, butog diiqul you butog d teechan. Yindiizyiyyi, nuvliq fazhan ben diiqul d teechan, s ciehed srijiil d zoofas. Syegchan liizhim d diiqul, yiggai daaliq fazhan liizhim d shegchan. Suc Shijf you shikc yun: "loy fus shan xia si shih chun, lurx jumz yagm meim cih dih xinb. Ri danks licz zhim san baih kew, bu ciy chag zo ligt nanl ren." Danw ri danks san baih kew, jiujigw neg you gih ren ne? Syehuiidruyii siandaiihuaa d liizhim shegchan, yiggai nneggou zrubuz manvzuz gvagda rrenmin d sheghos xuyao.
贾祖璋《南州六月荔枝丹》
幼年时只知道荔枝干的壳和肉都是棕褐色的。上了小学。老师讲授白居易的《荔枝图序》，读到"壳如红缯，膜如紫绡，瓤肉莹白如冰雪，浆液甘酸如醴酪。"实在无法理解，荔枝哪里会是红色的!荔枝肉像冰雪那样洁白，不是更可怪吗?向老师提出疑问，老师也没有见过鲜荔枝，无法说明白，只好不了了之。假如是现在，老师纵然没有见过鲜荔枝，也可以找出科学的资料，给有点钻牛角尖的小学生解释明白吧。
白居易用比喻的笔法来描写荔枝的形态，的确也有不足之处。缯是丝织物，丝织物滑润，荔枝壳却是粗糙的。用果树学的术语来说，荔枝壳表面有细小的块状裂片，好象龟甲，特称龟裂片。裂片中央有突起部分，有的尖锐如刺，这叫做片峰。裂片大小疏密，片峰尖平，都因品种的不同而各异。
成熟的荔枝，大多数是深红色或紫色。生在树头，从远处当然看不清它壳面的构造，只有红色映入眼帘，因而把它比做"绛囊"、"红星"、"珊瑚珠"，都很逼真。至于整株树以至成片树林，那就成为"飞焰欲横天""红云几万重"的绚丽景色了。荔枝的成熟，广东是四月下旬到七月，福建是六月下旬到八月，都以七月为盛期，"南州六月荔枝丹"指的是阴历六月，正当阳历七月。荔枝也有淡红色的，如广东产的"三月红"和"桂绿"等。又有黄荔，淡黄色而略带淡红。荔枝呈心脏形、卵圆形或圆形，通常蒂部大，顶端稍小。蒂部周围微微突起，称为果肩;有的一边高，一边低。顶端叫果顶，浑圆或尖圆。两侧从果顶到蒂部有一条沟，叫做缝合线，显隐随品种而不同。旧记载中还有一些稀奇的品种，如细长如指形的"龙牙"、圆小如珠的"珍珠"，因为缺少经济价值，现在已经绝种了。
荔枝大小，通常是直径三四厘米，重十多克到二十多克。六十年代，广东调查得知，有鹅蛋荔和丁香大荔，重达四五十克。还有四川合江产的"楠木叶"，《四川果树良种图谱》说它重十九克左右，《中国果树栽培学》则说大的重六十克。所谓"膜如紫绡"，是指壳内紧贴壳的内壁的白色薄膜。说它"如紫绡"，是把壳内壁的花纹误作膜的花纹了。明代徐勃有一首《咏荔枝膜》诗，描写吃荔枝时把壳和膜扔在地上，好似"盈盈荷瓣风前落，片片桃花雨后娇"，是夸张的说法。
荔枝的肉大多数白色半透明，说它"莹白如冰雪"，完全正确。有的则微带黄色。从植物学的观点看，它不是果肉，而是种子外面的层膜发育而成的，应称做假种皮。真正的果肉倒是前面说的连同果壳扔掉的那一层膜。荔枝肉的细胞壁特别薄，所以入口一般都不留渣滓。味甜微酸，适宜于生食。有的纯甜。早熟品种则酸味较强。荔枝晒干或烘干，肉就成红褐色，完全失去洁白的面貌。
荔枝不耐贮藏，正如白居易说的:"一日而色变，二日而香变，三日而味变，四五日外，色香味尽去矣。"现经研究证实，温度保持在1℃到5℃，可贮藏三十天左右。还应进一步设法延长贮藏期，以利于长途运输，因为荔枝不耐贮藏，古代宫廷想吃荔枝，就要派人兼程飞骑从南方远送长安或洛阳，给人民造成许多痛苦。唐明皇为了宠幸杨贵妃，就干过这样的事，唐代杜牧诗云:"长安回望绣成堆，山顶千门次第开。一骑红尘妃子笑，无人知是荔枝来。"就是对这件事的嘲讽。
荔枝的核就是种子，长圆形，表面光滑，棕褐色，少数品种为绿色。优良的荔枝，种子发育不全，形状很小，有似丁香，也叫焦核。现在海南岛有无核荔枝，核就更加退化了。
荔枝花期是二月初到四月初，早晚随品种而不同。广东有双季荔枝，一年开花两次。又有四季荔枝，一年开花四次之多。花形小，绿白色或淡黄色，不耀眼。花分雌雄，仅极少数品种有完全花。雌雄花往往不同时开放，宜选择适当的品种混栽在一起，以增加授粉的机会。一个荔枝花序，生花可有一二千朵，但结实总在一百以下，所以有"荔枝十花一子"的谚语。荔枝花多，花期又长，是一种重要的蜜源植物。
荔枝原产于我国，是我国的特产。海南岛和廉江有野生的荔枝林，可为我国是原产地的明证。据记载，南越王尉佗曾向汉高祖进贡荔枝，足见当时广东已有荔枝。它的栽培历史，就从那个时候算起，也已在二千年以上了。唐代对四川荔枝多有记述。自从蔡襄的《荔枝谱》(1059)成书以后，福建荔枝也为所重视。广西和云南也产荔枝，却有少有人说起。
古代讲荔枝的书，包括蔡襄的在内，现在知道的共有十三种，以记福建所产的为多，尚存八种;记载广东所产的仅存一种。清初陈鼎一谱，则对川、粤、闽三省所产都有记载。蔡谱不仅是我国，也是世界的果树志中，著作年代最早的一部。内容包括荔枝的产地、生态、功用、加工、运销以及有关荔枝的史事，并记载了荔枝的三十二个品种。其中"陈紫"一种现在在仍然广为栽培。"宋公荔枝"现名"宋家香"，有老树一株，尚生长在莆田宋氏祠堂里，依然每年开花结实。这株千年古树更足珍惜。
荔枝是亚热带果树，性喜温暖，成都、福州是它生长的北限。汉武帝曾筑扶荔宫，把荔枝移植到长安，没有栽活，迁怒于养护的人，竟然对他们施以极刑。宋徽宗时，福建"以小株结实者置瓦器中，航海至阙下，移植宣和殿"。徽宗写诗吹嘘说:"密移造化出闽山，禁御新栽荔枝丹。"实际上不过当年成熟一次而已。明代文征明有《新荔篇》诗，说常熟顾氏种活了几株，"仙人本是海山姿，从此江乡亦萌蘖。"但究竟活了多少年，并无下文。现在科学发达，使荔枝北移，将来也许不是完全不可有的事。
我国幅员广阔，不同地区有不同的特产。因地制宜，努力发展本地区的特产，是切合实际的做法。盛产荔枝的地区，应该大力发展荔枝的生产。苏轼有诗云:"罗浮山下四时春，卢橘杨梅次第新。日啖荔枝三百颗，不辞长作岭南人。"但日啖三百颗，究竟能有几人呢?社会主义现代化的荔枝生产，应该能够逐步满足广大人民的生活需要。
