为什么D&G在中国犯的大错会是一场灾难

D&G惹众怒，看外媒怎么看？

奢侈品消费市场如何？中国消费者多少？这场危机专家怎么说？危机公关怎么看？

品牌全球化需要注意什么？

本文阅读大约需要3分钟

图片来自CNN

Why Dolce &Gabbana's China blunder could be such a disaster

CNN用blunder可见外媒也觉得D&G犯了大错

D&G需要处理它们在中国犯下的错误，或者离开中国繁荣的奢侈品市场。

New York（CNN Business）— Dolce & Gabbana needs to clean up the mess it made in China, or left out of the country's luxury boom.  

boom这个词让我们知道老外都知道中国的奢侈品市场有多么繁荣

过去几天，这家意大利时尚品牌一直在尝试应对一场由广告活动引发的危机。批评人士称这场广告活动是“无礼的和种族主义的”。让人吃惊的是，这些攻击性言论据称是该公司联合创始人Stefano Gabbana的个人Instagram账户发出的。这位意大利设计师否认写过这些信息。

Over the past several days, the Italian fashion line has been trying to manage a crisis caused by an ad campaign that critics called "disrespectful and racist." It's also reeling from offensive comments allegedly sent from co-founder Stefano Gabbana's personal Instagram account. The Italian designer has denied writing the messages.

这个事件传播迅速，后果严峻。名人呼吁抵制。中国的电商把D&G的产品下架。该品牌也由于这个宣传片取消了要在上海举办的一场大型时装秀。这个短片是采用一个亚裔模特艰难的用筷子吃意大利食品来意图宣传此次大秀。

Fallout from the controversy has been swift and harsh. Celebrities called for a boycott. Chinese e-commerce sites pulled D&G products from their virtual shelves. The brand canceled a major fashion show in Shanghai that the ads, which featured an Asian model struggling to eat Italian food with chopsticks, were designed to promote.

纽约大学Stern商学院的Tulin Erdem教授说，“这是个大的品牌危机，有时候品牌确实复苏了…但是只有1/10, (这一比例）这已经很高了。”

"This is a big brand crisis," said Tulin Erdem, a professor of marketing at NYU's Stern business school. "Sometimes brands do recover…but on a scale of 1-10, [this is] really high up."

疏远客户总是不利于生意。但是对奢侈品品牌来讲，赶走中国消费者是一场灾难。

Alienating customers is always bad for business. But for luxury brands, pushing away Chinese shopper is a disaster.

对奢侈品的尝试

A taste for luxury

曾在政府打击腐败期间一度放弃奢侈品的中国消费者，如今正在掀起一波高端时尚品牌的消费热潮。

Chinese consumers that abandoned luxury brands during a government crackdown corruption are now delivering a wave of sales to high-fashion brands.

Gucci和Alexander McQueen的母公司Kering集团表示，2018年上半年在中国的销售额飙升了30%。法国时尚品牌爱马仕将同期销售利润创下记录归功于在中国的销售。D&G作为一家私营公司没有对外公布他们的销售数据。

Kering, the owner of Gucci and Alexander McQueen, said that sales in China soared 30% in the first half of 2018. French fashion house Hermes credits sales in the country for record profits over the same period. D&G is a private company that does not share its sales figures with the public.

麦肯锡的数据显示，中国消费者每年对奢侈品的花费超过70亿美元。这一数字几乎占全球市场的三分之一。

Overall, Chinese consumers spend over $7 billion each year on luxury goods, according to the consultancy McKinsey. That's nearly one-third of the global market.

D&G或许把上海时装秀视为赢得中国消费者的一种方式。

Dolce & Gabbana may have seen the Shanghai show as a way to win over those consumers.

D&G在社交媒体账号上以#DGLovesChina和#DGTheGreatShow的标签推广了此次取消的时装秀。

The company had promoted the canceled event with the hashtags #DGLovesChina and #DGTheGreatShow on its social media accounts.

随着批评声的不断涌现，联合创始人 Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana试图解释他们的想法。

As criticism poured in, co-founders Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana tried to explain their thinking.

周三两位创始人在Instgram和Twitter上发表声明称：“我们的梦想是在上海举办一场致敬中国的活动，讲述我们的历史和愿景。这不仅仅是一场时装秀，更是我们对中国的热爱和热情的特别创作。“

"Our dream was to bring to Shanghai a tribute event dedicated to China which tells our history and vision," the founders said in a statement posted to Instagram and Twitter on Wednesday. "It was not simply a fashion show, but something that we created especially with love and passion for China."

该公司还声称Gabbana的账号被黑了，那些攻击性言论未经授权。“我爱中国和中国文化。对发生的事我很抱歉”Gabbana在个人账户上写道。

The company also said that Gabbana's account was hacked, and that the offensive messages were unauthorized. "I love China and the Chinese culture," Gabbana wrote on his personal account. "I'm so sorry for what happened."

该公司并未对CNN商业的置评要求做出及时回应。

The company did not immediately respond to a request for comment from CNN Business.

错失良机

Missing the mark

一些人觉得道歉并不真诚。

Some didn't find the apologies sincere.

华裔法国模特Estelle陈，退出了时装秀，并且在Instgram上直接点名D&G和Gabbana道“你不爱中国，你只是爱钱。”

Chinese-French model Estelle Chen, who withdrew from the show, wrote "you don't love China, you love money," in a Instagram post tagging both the brand and Gabbana directly.

纽约大学任教奢侈品营销和品牌策略的Thomai Serdari表示，中国消费者对于这些在网上迅速/病毒式传播的批评特别敏感。

Chinese consumers are particularly sensitive to criticism that goes viral online, said Thomai Serdari, a strategist in luxury marketing and branding who teaches at NYU's Stern Business school.

她说：“人们真切的被网上发生的事所影响，他们主要在网上购物，而且他们是优秀的研究者，他们有奢饰品市场的经验，并且知道自己在买什么。“

"People are really influenced by what's happening online," she said. "They do shop primarily online, and they're excellent researchers," she said. They "have experience in the luxury market and they really what they're buying.

长江商学院营销学教授孙宝红表示，年轻、富裕的中国消费者对待的奢侈品的方式正在改变。

And the way young, wealthy Chinese consumers are thinking about luxury is evolving, said Sun Baohong, a marketing professor at Cheung Kong Graduate School of Business.

她说：“以前奢侈品更多的作为彰显社会地位的一种方式，而现在，奢饰品更多的作为表达自我”。

Before it was more for showing off social status," she said. Now, it's about "making a personal statement."

”即使D&G没有因为广告冒犯到人们，它也很可能错过了宣传目标。“她还补充说。

Even if Dolce & Gabbana hadn't offended people with its ads, she added, it probably would have missed the mark with the campaign.

“那则广告实际上展示了非常过时的‘中国形象’"她说。”中国消费者依然喜欢外国品牌，但是情况正在发生变化。“

"The ad is really showing a very old-fashioned" image of China, she said. "Chinese consumers still love foreign brands, but things are changing."

赔礼道歉

Making amends

现在D&G不得不想办法赢回中国消费者。

Now, D&G has to figure out how to win back Chinese consumers.

危机公关公司CommCore Consulting Group创始人Andrew

Gilman表示：”这不可能一蹴而就。“品牌必须”找到他们能找到的最有影响力的人……"并重新赢得他们的好感。

"It's not going to happen overnight," said Andrew Gilman, founder of the crisis communication firm CommCore Consulting Group. The brand will have to "find the biggest influencers they can…[and] get back in their good graces," he said.

他说，公司还必须在社交平台和其他任何与顾客沟通的渠道上分享一致的信息。

The company must also share a consistent message across its social media platforms and any other channels it uses to communicate with consumers, he said.

今后，它必须更好的理解中国文化。“你可以成为一个全球品牌，”Gilman说，“但你必须具有本土敏感性。”

Moving forward, it will have to do a better job of understanding Chinese culture. "You can be a global brand," Gilman said, "but you have to have local sensitivities."

CNN's Ivana Kottasová, Stephy Chung and Oscar Holland contributed to this report.

原文链接：https://www.cnn.com/2018/11/24/business/dolce-gabbana-china/