埃及旅行记事(8)夜观卢克索神庙
卢克索的古迹中最引人注目的是卡纳克神庙和卢克索神庙。
卢克索神庙 (Luxortemple) 位于市中心,曾经只是用来庆祝新年的小神殿,后来阿蒙霍特普三世、图特摩斯三世和拉美西斯二世相继对此进行扩建维修,把这里作为迎接阿蒙神、穆特女神和孔苏神的祭奠之处,所以又被称为“阿蒙神的南部别宫”。
神庙已有3000年的历史,建筑宏伟,现在的遗迹包括有巨型的石像、方尖碑、浮雕及壁画等。
神庙由塔门、方尖碑、庭院、石柱厅、放生池和诸神殿构成。塔门是神庙的主要入口。在塔门两侧原来矗立着六尊拉美西斯二世的巨石雕像和两尊方尖碑。神庙里面还有一座赛拉匹斯小神庙,就在前院的北边。
每年奥帕特节(Opet festival)时都会在此举办盛大的祭典。神庙前是以狮身人面像名字命名的斯芬克斯大道,原本可以一直通往卡尔纳克神庙,但现已中断。神庙内可以看到巨大的拉美西斯二世雕像、花岗石方尖碑以及壮观的石柱群等建筑。
白天观看了卢克索最大的卡纳克神庙,夜晚,在灯光照射下观看卢克索神庙又是另一番感受。
我们没有经过斯芬克斯(狮身人面像)大道,直接从一侧停车场的道路进入神庙前广场。一路上听着埃及斋月节喇叭播放的声音,更增加了这里的神秘。
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神庙前有一面高大的石墙。现在,石墙前有一尊方尖碑、六尊法老石像,石墙中间是巨大的塔门,通过塔门进入神庙。
《埃及全攻略》曾经记载:卢克索神庙的大门坐东朝西,巨大的第一塔门塔高21米,是由拉美西斯二世(Ramesses II)后来建造而成。塔门前面原有六尊法老雕像,但经过岁月的磨砺,如今只剩下三尊法老雕像和一个原是一对的方尖碑......
我们去的时候,石墙前已经恢复了六尊法老石像,还有一尊方尖碑。
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塔门入口处,是两尊拉美西斯二世的坐式雕像。经过神道,我们进入神庙中心。
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神庙的几个庭院都由柱廊环绕,里面建有神灵和法老的雕像,外墙和内墙上刻有描述法老的浮雕故事。
走过第一道塔门,另一边即是拉美西斯二世庭院,该庭院曾用作阿蒙霍特普三世神庙的前厅。拉美西斯二世庭院的西北边是一座三重三桅杆帆船神庙。神庙中雕有阿蒙神、姆特神和孔苏神。拉美西斯大庭院的每一侧均有一排柱廊,柱廊的空隙间筑有巨大的雕像。
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回头看,在神庙宽厚高墙的后面,还有多个小神殿。
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高大的石柱中,有多尊法老雕像,有的已经残缺。
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庭院内墙上刻有浮雕
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第一庭院内,前方有一道高大的柱廊,这道柱廊由7对纸莎草状圆柱组成,在柱廊入口的两边各有一尊法老像,其后的一对坐像显示着图坦卡蒙及其王后安卡沙纳姆的双人雕像。
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在月光和灯光映射下,这些雕像、镌刻的图案和文字很有立体感。
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这是图坦卡蒙及其王后安卡沙纳姆(Ankhesenamun)的双人雕像。
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走过第一庭院进入这7对纸莎草状的圆柱柱廊,高大的石柱巍然屹立,颇有气势。穿过这排柱廊,前面又是几组连线的长排柱廊。
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前面是几组连排的廊柱,每尊都由多重圆形的石柱组成,并形成石柱大厅。这就是阿蒙霍特普三世柱廊。该柱廊以及前面的7对高大的纸莎草状圆柱,共同构成神庙壮观的景象。
柱廊的后面是阿蒙霍特普三世建造的庭院。它的三面也有纸莎草柱围绕,柱上有柱台。1989年在修复时在三米深处发现了多座法老、神和狮身人面像。今天它们被展出在卢克索博物馆。
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阿蒙霍特普三世柱廊造型独特,采用连体多重圆柱体的方法,增大了每尊石柱的体积。
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这里原是神圣法老的寝室,曾用作三桅帆船神殿,后来被改用做了罗马皇帝们朝拜神灵的小礼堂。两边各有一根科林斯廊柱,被称为“罗马厅”。
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墙上刻画有阿蒙霍特普三世向阿蒙神献上祭祀物品的壁画。古代埃及的绘画作品均有泥土覆盖,多描绘的是罗马皇族的生活场景。
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左右各有一座小神殿,分别奉献给姆特女神和孔斯神。
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小神殿内有多尊石柱支撑的庙顶
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墙面是若干组浮雕壁画
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走出小神殿,前方是和卡纳克神庙相似的石柱大厅,远处是第一庭院的7对圆形柱廊。
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站在阿蒙霍特普三世柱廊大厅前的庭院
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走出阿蒙霍特普三世柱廊大厅,其周边的柱廊相互映衬。
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柱廊外是一片废墟
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阿蒙霍特普三世柱廊大厅的外侧
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坍塌的部分柱廊基座
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走在7对柱廊中,仰天望去,皓月当空。
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在第一庭院的内墙里
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神庙的中央部位被毁坏之后,在一侧建起了阿布·哈格固清真寺。每年伊斯兰斋月之前的半个月,这里都要举行盛大的祭典。
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在前院的西北角一座罗马神殿,神殿中放置了一尊屋头的伊希斯雕像。
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我们走出神庙,从容地拍摄一下它的门口。
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神庙塔门前,左右是拉美西斯二世的坐式雕像。
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两旁是修复后的立式雕像
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这里原有两尊方尖碑,现只剩一尊(下图左侧)。《埃及全攻略》记载:西北方向(下图右侧)的那尊方尖碑现在矗立在法国巴黎的协和广场上。
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另有资料称:在巴黎协和广场正中心矗立着一座高23米、有3400多年历史的埃及方尖碑,这是1831年由埃及总督穆罕默德·阿里赠送给法国的,碑身的古文字记载着古埃及拉美西斯法老的事迹。当初这块方尖碑23米高、230吨重,由一块完整的巨形玫瑰色花岗岩雕琢而成。从埃及卢克索,经历了两年半的海上航行之后运抵法国。路易·菲利普把这座方尖碑当作他在保皇派和共和党之间政治中立的标志,竖立在协和广场上。
作为交换,穆罕默德·阿里为开罗的一座清真寺获得了法国赠送的一座钟塔(见《埃及旅行记事(3)》)。
下图是我2023年在法国巴黎协和广场上拍摄的方尖碑:
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我将在法国巴黎协和广场上拍摄的方尖碑放在这里和卢克索拍摄的方尖碑比较,是不是很相似呢?
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现在,神庙前剩下的这只方尖碑孤独地矗立在这里......它的伙伴却远在法国的巴黎。
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神庙前是以狮身人面像名字命名的斯芬克斯大道,原本可以一直通往卡尔纳克神庙,但现已中断。
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·本集完毕·