#每天读一点服装史106篇# AUSTERE TIMES

1930 - 1939

AUSTERE TIMES

The Wall Street Crash forced the frivolous single girl of the 1920s to grow up and take life more seriously.

The new silhouette was long and lean, emphasized by hemlines several inches below the knee, vertical seams, and slanting pockets.

Perhaps in empathy with those actually on the breadline, anything round or full was abhorred, and women were all sharp angles and hipbones, their outlines sometimes softened by fur collars and cuffs.

Linings or facings in contrasting colors, large pussy bows, belts, buttons, and deep cuffs were popular decorative features.

Floral patterns were still fashionable for summer, while checks and plaids became particularly popular toward the end of the decade.

Clutch bags, as slimline as their wearers, were held in hands sheathed in gloves with spiky gauntlets.

Hair was worn close to the head in a permanent wave, at first still covered by close-fitting cloches and later adorned by a tiny hat worn at a jaunty angle.

MISS MODERN

Aimed at the unmarried working girl, Miss Modern was a “sixpenny,” a cheap monthly British magazine first published in October 1930.

Its ideal reader, shown here on the cover, was not afraid to check her makeup and adjust her hat in public using the mirror inside the flap of her fashionable clutch bag.

The business girl could add to her stylish wardrobe using the free pattern for an “idea office dress” inside the magazine.

SHOES

The 1930s saw a range of shoe and heel shapes to choose from, particularly toward the end of the decade.

Shoes with straps were gradually replaced with strapless opera pumps for everyday wear.

“Sandals” (pumps with one or more straps) nevertheless continued to be worn in the summer and for dancing.

Piping in a contrasting color or metallic leather was often used for decoration.

Shoes with higher vamps, referred to as “slip-ons” or “step-ins,” and lace-up styles, usually called Oxfords, were practical daytime choices.

Wedge heels and open-toe styles heralded the 1940s.

1930 - 1939

简朴时代

华尔街危机迫使二十世纪20年代的轻浮单身女孩儿们长大，开始认真对待生活。

新时代的轮廓线是又瘦又高的，强调下摆在膝下几英寸，垂直的接缝和倾斜的口袋。

或许从同情的角度看待那些现实存在的救济队伍，任何圆形或饱满的都会被排斥，女性带着锋利的角度和髋骨，轮廓线有时被毛皮领口和袖口柔和化。

衬里与外表面的色彩对比，大型领口蝴蝶结，腰带，纽扣以及宽袖口是当时流行的装饰特征。

花卉图案在夏天仍然是时髦的，在这个十年周期末尾时，格子花呢变得特别受欢迎。

手抓包，就像穿着者一样的细长，握在佩戴手套的手中，搭配尖锐的时代造型。

发型是贴近头部的永久大波浪，一开始它们被罩在贴合剪裁的钟型帽里，后来变成一顶斜角度穿戴的小帽子。

摩登小姐

针对未婚女工，“摩登小姐”是一本“六分钱”，廉价的英国杂志，于1930年10月首次发行。

它理想的读者，从封面可以显示，她们并不畏惧检查自己的妆容，并使用她时尚手抓包内的镜子公开调整帽子。

商务女孩可以使用杂志内免费提供的“理想办公室穿着”服装样板，依样添加到她自己的时尚衣柜里。

鞋履

二十世纪30年代有一系列的鞋跟形状可供选择，特别在末期。

在日常穿着上，有带鞋逐渐被无带的歌剧船鞋替代。

“罗马式凉鞋” 在夏天与跳舞时是必不可少的。

包边装饰经常使用对比色或金属皮革。

具有较高鞋面的鞋子，被称为“滑入式”或“步入式”，而系带的通常称之为“牛津鞋”，它们是实用的日间选择。

楔形鞋跟与露趾式样预示着二十世纪40年代的到来。