单骑走东北(第三十天)
昨天晚上看预报,今天又是大风天气,和宾馆的人聊天,他们说早上一般会小些。因此今天早上六点起床,吃完早饭立即出发,顺路拐到中国人民解放军第四野战军在哈尔滨的指挥部(驻双城)纪念馆,纪念馆八点半才开门,在门口拍个照走人。早上风确实小些,且双城到主城区的路也好了很多,双向六车道。骑行速度较昨天快了一倍左右。十点半己进入主城区,十一点半抵达这次骑游活动的终点哈尔滨市圣索菲亚教堂。全程七十公里。
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圣·索菲亚教堂坐落于哈尔滨市道里区索菲亚广场,是一座始建于1907年拜占庭风格的东正教教堂,为哈尔滨的标志性建筑。圣·索菲亚教堂始建于清光绪三十三年(1907年)三月,最初为沙俄东西伯利亚第四步兵师修建中东铁路时修建的一座随军教堂。同年,俄国茶商伊·费·赤斯嘉科夫出资,以随军教堂为基础,重新修建了一座全木结构教堂。1911年,木墙外部砌了一层砖墙,形成了砖木结构式教堂。1923年9月27日,圣·索菲亚教堂第二次重建,历时9年,于1932年11月25日落成,成为远东地区最大的东正教堂。索菲亚教堂是俄国建筑师科亚西科夫设计,富丽堂皇,典雅超俗,宏伟壮观,通高53.25米,建筑面积721平方米,可容纳2000人。正门顶部为钟楼,7座铜铸制的乐钟恰好是7个音符,要由训练有素的敲钟人手脚并用才能敲打出抑扬顿挫的钟声。教堂建筑平面呈希腊十字方式布置,既受拜占庭建筑风格影响,主穹顶、钟楼又有俄罗斯传统的“帐篷顶”、“洋葱头”造型。内部装饰风挌典雅,说不上是什么风格。墙上布置着一个个人画展,舞台上一帅哥正在演奏萨克斯曲,曲目为轻松的中国民歌和俄罗斯民歌。让人感觉轻松愉悦。
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之后又去参观了防洪胜利纪念塔。防洪胜利纪念塔由哈尔滨著名建筑大师李光耀为纪念1957年哈尔滨人民战胜特大洪水于1958年设计修建。防洪胜利纪念塔由高13米的圆柱形塔身和高7米的半圆形回廊构成,颇为壮观。塔身的浮雕生动地再现了战胜洪水的情形,塔顶的工农兵圆雕表现了战胜洪水的英雄形象。防洪胜利纪念塔是哈尔滨集旅游,消费,文化场景于一体的城市综合体。北面太阳岛,冰雪大世界,南面直通中央大街,本地人和来玩的游客都会来这里放松娱乐。防洪胜利纪念塔就在松花江畔,风大的堤上站不住人,略停片刻就去逛中央大街啦!
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中央大街是哈尔滨市很繁盛的一条商业步行街,北起江畔的防洪纪念塔广场,南接新阳广场,长1400米。这条长街始建于1900年,街道建筑包罗了文艺复兴,巴洛克等多种风格的建筑71栋。中央大街是哈尔滨的缩影,哈尔滨的独特建筑文化和哈尔滨人的欧式生活,都在这里明显的体现,并且被称为“亚洲第一街”。漫步中央大街有一种异国情调。这两天游客还不算多。不同风格的大楼基本上都是一些大品牌公司使用,各种商品琳琅满目,价格比其它地方略高些。我品偿了一根俄罗斯烤红肠,喝了一杯格瓦斯,味道不错。
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参观完圣索菲亚教堂之后就近找了一家自行车店,将自行车打包发回灵宝。至此,就算骑行结束。再玩两天打道回府。
中午在这里品偿的炒焖鸡莲藕,微辣,挺香的。中央大街的美食很多。就发列巴和红肠两张照片算是个代表吧。
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