【教书匠阿伦-外刊精读】纽约时报记者卧底外卖小哥，美版饿了么，U

2019-07-25 本文已影响1人教书匠阿伦

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I had just started my lunch shift when the phone pinged: Uber Eats, pickup at Cocina del Sur on West 38th Street in Manhattan, five blocks away. Great! I pedaled down West 40th into congealing crosstown traffic. Seconds later my phone ponged — different sound. Postmates, another delivery app: Pick up two orders at Shake Shack on Broadway and 36th?

我刚开始我午餐时间的时候，电话就响了：送餐应用Uber Eats，在曼哈顿西38街的Cocina del Sur，就五个街区的距离。太好了！我踩着踏板就朝第四十街前进，进入了拥挤的十字路口。几秒钟之后，我的手机又发出了不同的声音。另一款快递应用Postmates提示：要在百老汇和36街的Shake Shack接收两个订单吗？

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I had to decide: Take on three orders at once and risk falling behind? Stick with Uber Eats, which was running a $10 bonus for doing six deliveries by 1:30, or try for a Postmates bonus? Information was limited. The Uber Eats app doesn’t tell you where the delivery is going until you pick it up. I could not know what the Postmates job would pay.

我必须要做决定：一次接受三个订单，然后冒着落后的风险？坚持使用Uber Eats，它在1:30之前能完成6次送货，可以获得10美元的奖金，或者试试Postmates的奖金？不过信息是有限的。Uber Eats应用程序不会告诉你送货的目的地，直到你接受它才会。我也不知道Postmates的工作的报酬是多少。

The Postmates clock ticked down — you have seconds to accept or decline an order. I was threading my way around lurching honking trucks and oblivious texting pedestrians and watching for cops and looking down at the phone mounted on my handlebars and calculating delivery times. I hit “Accept.”

Postmates时钟在滴答滴答响了- 也就意味着你有几秒钟来接受或拒绝订单。我正穿过卡车群，漫不经心的给行人发短信，还得注意警察，低头看着我车把上的手机，计算着送货时间，点击“接受”。

The riders, once you’re tuned in to them, are everywhere, gliding by stoically, usually on electric bikes, wearing their precious cargo on their backs: the silent swarm of tens of thousands of workers for apps like Seamless and GrubHub and Uber Eats and Caviar and DoorDash and Postmates, crisscrossing the city to gratify New Yorkers’ insatiable need for burgers and pad thai and chicken tikka masala delivered in minutes. For a few days this spring, I was one of them. Not a good one, but a deliveryman nevertheless. I learned up close how the high-tech era of on-demand everything is transforming some of the lowest-tech, lowest-status, low-wage occupations — creating both new opportunities and new forms of exploitation.一旦你了解了骑手们，他们就是无处不在的，通常都在电动自行车，坚忍地滑翔，背着他们贵重的货物：成千上万的工人为像Seamless，GrubHub，Uber Eats，Caviar，DoorDash和Postmates这样的应用程序，往返奔波在城市中，来满足纽约人对汉堡永不满足的需要，以及泰式国菜咖喱鸡在几分钟内的送货。今年春天我就是他们中的一员。尽管不是很好的一个，但也是一个送货员。我近距离了解到，随着需求而变化的高科技时代正在改变一些技术含量最低，地位最低，工资最低的职业，创造出新的机会和新的剥削方式。

The riders are the street-level manifestation of an overturned industry, as restaurants are forced to become e-commerce businesses, outsourcing delivery to the apps who outsource it to a fleet of freelancers.Even their tips have a way of vanishing: One app subtracts the amount the customer tips from the amount it pays the courier — effectively pocketing the tip.

如同餐馆被迫成为电子商务企业一样，骑手们就是颠覆这个行业的街头表现，餐馆将送货外包给应用程序，而应用程序又把送货外包给一群自由职业者。甚至于他们的消费都有一种消失的方式，一个应用程序从支付给快递员的金额中减去客户小费的金额 - 实际上将小费收入囊中。

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I tasted the thrill of a decent tip and the agony of accepting a blind order that took me 40 blocks uptown to deliver two bagels. And I learned what can happen if you pay attention to the traffic for a whole minute or fail to hear your phone over the sirens and jackhammers: Miss one ping and there goes your Uber Eats Quest bonus.

我尝到了一个不错小费的快感，也体会了盲目订单的痛苦，我找了40个街区才在住宅区送了两个百吉饼。我还了解到，如果你把注意力集中到交通上整整一分钟，或者因为鸣笛声和手提钻的声音而没有听到手机声音，就可能错过一个手机订单，Uber Eats上的奖金就没有了。

本新闻解读首发于2019年07月23日，新闻来源: New York Times

新闻链接：https://www.nytimes.com/2019/07/21/reader-center/insider-reporter-food-deliveryman.html作者：Andy Newman

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