杭州三日
泡茶、铺纸、点烟、写西湖。
如此反复两次,却没能写出半个字来。
手边便是张岱的《西湖梦寻》,几去杭州,都携此书而行,且游且读,但我的西湖之梦,却如这浩渺西湖水,愈沉愈积。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/fc4b4395436990e6.jpg)
西湖盛名,已然是历史文化长河中的一个符号,且厚重得让你无法想象。似乎每一滴湖水,都是一枚闪亮的文字,每一株湖边柳,都是一位与西湖相关的历史人物,静伫千年。
虽说“西湖天下景,游者无贤愚。深浅随所得,谁能识其全”,但既到西湖,还是能游明白才好,否则真是枉负了这片西湖水和这座临安城。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/3d87f83a8050916d.jpg)
以三天时间游玩杭州,规划好路线和时间尤为重要。
先说住宿吧,依本人经验所得,第一天可选择在上城区沿湖一线,保俶路、庆春路、延安路、浣纱路。步行十分钟左右就可抵达湖边,甚至中午可以返回酒店午睡,非常方便。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/caa39000e50efd47.jpg)
一早步至断桥,上白堤至平湖秋月,经西泠过曲院荷风,拐上苏堤,经苏堤春晓一直到雷峰塔下,登塔游后沿湖经柳浪闻莺、花港观鱼回来。这环湖的一圈可是相当考验脚力的,但是可以尽赏西湖之美,若体力有限,也可以从雷峰塔下来,对面路边乘车返回住地或直接去湖边的楼外楼。
对于老饕们来说,杭州楼外楼的大名不应不晓,若不慕名饱餐一顿,实属大憾。推荐一下经典菜,东坡肉是必点,叫化童鸡 、宋嫂鱼羹、西湖醋鱼、龙井虾仁、响油鳝丝、丝瓜笋干、西湖纯菜汤,这些是最地道的点法,全点下来不过600左右,若二人出游的话,一餐吃不下可多来吃几次。其余菜式,价格都比一般大饭店贵很多,也没必要在这里吃。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/943a7c1a98bfca11.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/e13b6148d4fd4d2d.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/e52d9cb1f5016710.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/d8e50c2731250c7b.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/11272f9f0de3e422.jpg)
酒足饭饱出来,建议乘船游湖,从另一个角度观赏西湖。船有大船小舟两种选择,价格都较合理,大小船都体验过,更偏爱船伕摇桨的小船,有茶水小食干果,悠闲有古意。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/8dfbdd7a4650bbbb.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/856d9f381b8913f5.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/5071404bf33bd37d.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/832dfe0a563d50cb.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/773d28ee650e2790.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/c42c5ccd010a1b72.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/1ae6c7015ab59419.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/4c420e5a3f18399f.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/e0228afb67526cff.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/6290f6734bb43aab.jpg)
西湖之美,在于四季雨雪,曦光月下。苏轼有“渐见灯明出远寺,更待月黑看湖光”之句,三潭所以印月,便是夜游方可得见。夜游苏堤听潮水击岸,沿阶而上登宝石山,于宝俶塔下俯瞰西湖夜景,是令人难以忘怀的游历体验。
第二天移居灵隐寺不远处的白乐桥,这里是杭州民宿客栈比较集中的地方。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/5081167cd7ec9c21.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/4030840083af92a3.jpg)
几十家客栈各具特色,灵隐寺、永福寺、韬光寺钟声可闻,居于此有幽隐山野之秘。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/84a4a11b37000bd7.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/a935931d099a3ecd.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/09e0dc2afc57093c.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/31ab889b9a8ce00a.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/f5d2269eef3a0eea.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/e9321ab76cad37b5.jpg)
韬光寺,位于杭州北高峰的南坡巢拘坞内,出灵隐寺门右侧的上坡道,走段路便可到达韬光寺,寺院地势较高,韬光观海曾为远观西湖与钱塘江之绝佳景点,自古就有朝佛、观日、观海三绝而著称。
上飞来峰,还可以乘索道登上更高的北高峰,一揽西湖
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/34a30bc9c6ba19f5.jpg)
将第三天留给西溪。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/96d6f982dd7422b0.jpg)
如果说西湖是浓妆淡抹的西子,那么西溪便是不染粉黛的碧玉。
游人不多,面积辽阔,水道湖凼众多。草木茂盛,间有村户书舍,极为幽僻。看过电影《非诚勿扰》的朋友,或有所了解,在此不多赘述,留给你自己亲身去体会吧。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/e25e53244dfd181b.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/959395b6d73621f2.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/9d26247152082c8f.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/df1ed3585b4a4c68.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/3b3926a1c5695987.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/d81a5fbc0d61c401.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/41a76914d9434778.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/d3b5afd70952e88b.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/c607f23f06218179.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/19313b92e378beb6.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/58e23cb69780af00.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/ee58d7f22cdd2833.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/ca8c657539c46e66.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/5dca90271c12b213.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/0f98017235b927b9.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/539df245c13ec554.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/276d47e732dadf6b.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/5631e893802784ff.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/b6a59fb0107e2e75.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/e30837cf93abb248.jpg)
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/ff978afec38e9747.jpg)
西溪湿地国家公园距闹市不远,交通也便利,门票+电瓶车百余元,园内导游图是必备的。
![](https://img.haomeiwen.com/i10939471/b1b54eb52d5a8f9c.jpg)
山外青山楼外楼,西湖歌舞几时休。这或许是关于西湖最著名的诗句了。
西湖柳浪,临安繁华,自古以来盛名载道。当年金主完颜亮,读了柳永《望海潮》,艳羡垂涎,起投鞭渡江之念,大举南侵。这阙词也选进了高中课本,在此复习一下,权当结语。
【东南形胜,三吴都会,钱塘自古繁华。烟柳画桥,风帘翠幕,参差十万人家。云树绕堤沙,怒涛卷霜雪,天堑无涯。市列珠玑,户盈罗绮,竞豪奢。重湖叠巘清嘉,有三秋桂子,十里荷花。羌管弄晴,菱歌泛夜,嬉嬉钓叟莲娃。千骑拥高牙,乘醉听箫鼓,吟赏烟霞。异日图将好景,归去凤池夸。】