游记(之十八)苏州穹窿山
在冷空气来临之前,爬一下苏州最高峰。所谓最高峰,海拔也不过三百四十多米罢了,就高度而言,称之为山峰的确有些勉强。然而其山势挺拔,道路陡峭,林木茂密,从这面看,被叫做山峰倒也名副其实。
苏州本平原之地,唯有这西南临近太湖一侧,数十座大大小小的山峰,热热闹闹的聚在一起,山色郁郁葱葱,灵动秀气,而这穹窿山确是其中翘楚。
穹窿山北侧山门为正门,站在山门前的广场向上看,首先看到的是高大的山门,山门后是俊秀的山,山之上是鱼鳞般的云,云后是蓝蓝的天,山色天色浑然一体。进山门之后的常规路线本是直登山顶的御道,然而为了多跑几步,便选择了西侧的观光车车道,路是柏油路,几乎没有行人。道路东侧的山谷满是绿树翠竹,点缀着红枫黄叶,色彩斑斓,山谷很静,听不见游人的声音,间或闻得几声鸟语,打破平静。路两侧的树木也很高大,有些路段几乎形成天然的隧道。
越爬越高,越爬越慢。到了宁邦寺旁的小潭竟有些迈不动步了,那潭面依然如镜,只有几个淘气的孩子拨弄水面,挑起阵阵涟漪。继续向上,继续走无人的路,窄窄的石径潮湿曲折,两侧是茂密的竹林,竹林下的地面洒满了枯黄的竹叶,毕竟已是初冬了。
爬到山巅果然开朗,山南侧是大大的山坳,山势陡峭,山上植被的顶端形成的坡面也随着山势而陡峭,再向远看是飘渺的太湖。山南为阳,南坡果然一改北坡的潮湿阴暗,阳光下的山林竹石,温暖了许多,亮丽的竟有些耀眼了。
接下来就是向南的下坡路了,下坡的脚步自是轻快,心情也随之而放松,信步走过狭窄原始的小路和平整宽阔的车道,踏石阶穿竹林,跨小桥越浅涧,看着被黄叶枯枝覆盖的亭,幽静空灵的孙武苑、朱买臣读书台,心境也宁静宽广起来。山不在高,有仙则名,然而现实中令山闻名的,大多不是仙。
从南门出来,再跑回起点,全程长约十公里,用时一小时十九分,身体略疲劳,但精神很足。
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