#每天读一点服装史# DELIGHTING IN THE DET

2017-07-19  本文已影响0人  末小闲

1820 - 1830

DELIGHTING IN THE DETAIL

The widening and shortening of skirt hems in the 1820s revealed footwear and, on occasion, stockings and ankles.

A wide waistband helped to lower the waist enabling alterations through the addition of a strip of extra fabric under the belt.

1824

Piping appeared on bodices and cuffs and persisted until around 1870.

Dress bodices were uniformly back fastened, while Spencer jackets and pelisses opened at center front.

The pelisse evolved into a redingote (literally riding coat).

1828

Fashion plate distinctions between outfits for different occasions were not so clear in real life — people adapted what they had.

Upon the death of George IV (June 1830), various stages of mourning were shown, as a lavender-gray filter descended on fashion.

1830

HAT AND BONNETS

The 1820s were typified by elaborate hats and bonnets tat revealed faces, and were poised at jaunty side angles.

Front temple curls or smooth-parted hair was always visible under light muslin or lawn caps.

Head wear was of straw, velvet, or silk on a firm foundation, or fabric drawn across cane or wire.

Feathers and artificial flowers on top were balanced by ribbons fashioned into bows and roses under the brim.

There were endless variations on a theme, ever more stylish and extravagant.

Ribbons of silk gauze were highly prized.

公元1820 - 1830年

细节乐趣

十九世纪20年代,裙摆的扩大与裙长的缩短,将鞋履,袜子与脚踝展现了出来。

一条宽腰带有助于降低腰线,并且通过皮带下的额外的织带,使腰线收放称为可能。

滚边出现在胸衣与袖口上并且一直持续到1870年左右。

礼服胸衣在后背系带固定,而斯宾塞夹克与皮夹外衣则将门襟开在前面。

Pelisse皮质外套演变成一种女士外套(过去为男士骑马装束)。

1827

不同场合着装在时尚界与现实生活中的差异并不是那么清楚,人们会适应他们所拥有的。

乔治四世(1830年6月)去世之后,展现一番哀悼的景象,就像薰衣草灰色就逐渐被传播开了。

帽子

1820年代以佩戴精制帽饰与软帽的面孔为特征,并且连侧面角度也精心设计。

前面太阳穴处的卷发,或者光滑分开的头发,在浅色面纱与细麻帽下显露出来。

头饰是由稻草,天鹅绒,丝绸的坚实基础上制作的,有时甘蔗皮或者电线也会用来做支撑。

头顶的羽毛装饰与人造花朵通过丝带来固定在蝴蝶结和玫瑰花的下面。

总是有无限的变化在一个主题上,这使得造型看上去更加时尚与奢华。

丝带价格非常高昂。

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