#每天读一点服装史# BAROQUE TO NEOCLASSIC

1720 - 1770

BAROQUE TO NEOCLASSICAL

France was the center of fashion in the 18th century and dressing well was seen as the cornerstone of an established society.

France had the finest textile industries, and throughout the salons of Paris, and Europe, clothes were the visible elements of social standing.

It was English country dress, however, that became increasingly important as the century progressed.

Fashions changed slowly, but there was an awareness of slight nuances, such as new styles in silk design or a change in the length of waistcoats (vests).

The components of men’s dress remained constant - an outer garment, waistcoat, and breeches - but the look changed across the century from the heavy baroque through the lighter rococo to the beginnings of the neoclassical.

By the end of the period there was a new garment called the frock, which was based on English sporting dress.

Thomas graham, baron Lynedoch

WAISTCOATS (VESTS)

In the 1720s and 30s men wore long waistcoats, and there was a vogue for hand-embroidered white-work styles in white cotton or linen threads on a white linen ground.

The mid-18th century saw the start of more color, with delicate naturalistic embroidery in colored silk threads, sometimes with metal thread, around the waistcoat edges and the pocket flaps.

There were embroidery workshops throughout Europe, with the finest in France and England.

公元1720 - 1770年

巴洛克到新古典主义

法国是十八世纪的时尚中心，良好着装被视为良好社会设立的基石。

法国拥有最好的纺织工业，整个巴黎的沙龙，在欧洲服饰是社会地位的可视要素。

然而英国乡村服饰，随着世纪的演进正在变得越来越重要。

时尚改变缓慢，但在细微差别上仍旧有所觉察，例如新风格的丝绸设计或者马甲背心的长度变化。

男装的组成保持不变 - 一件外套，背心与马裤 - 但这个造型的变化从重巴洛克时期穿越轻洛可可时期一直延续到新古典主义的开始。

直到这段时期结束，出现一款新的服饰叫做夫拉克frock，它是以英式运动服为基础的。

背心马甲

十八世纪20与30年代，男士穿着长款马甲，那是一种在白色棉布上手工刺绣白花，或者白色亚麻底商刺绣亚麻线的风格。

十八世纪中期开始出现更多的色彩，伴随彩色丝线的精美绣花，有时使用金属线，一般装饰在背心边缘与口袋襟上。

整个欧洲各地都有刺绣工坊，其中又以法国与英国最佳。