甘南之旅第四天:若尔盖草原&花湖,九曲黄河第一湾
昨晚住在珠穆拉瑞酒店,眼前的这座山峰叫做岷山山脉,属巴颜喀拉山余脉,由四川阿坝藏族自治州延伸至甘南州境内白龙江南岸。北起甘肃迭部县,顺若尔盖向松潘县横贯,是岷江、涪江、白龙江以及黑河的分水岭。这里曾经留下元代忽必烈南征云南大理的足迹,又有一九三五年红军翻越大雪山入迭部胜利到达陕北的壮举。毛泽东“更喜岷山千里雪,三军过后尽开颜”写的就是这里!
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今天的安排很宽松,主要景点就是观赏若尔盖草原和花湖,下午赶往九曲黄河第一湾去看日落,听起来就很美很诗意~
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终于明白为什么这两天一会儿在甘肃境内,一会儿又到四川了,皆因这座大山~
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开车三个多小时从迭部翻过岷山重返昨天的路,回到川甘交界的若尔盖大草原,沿途看到成群的牦牛,数数似乎比看到的人都多!
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花湖位于若尔盖和郎木寺之间的213国道旁,热尔大坝上有3个相邻的海子,最小的叫错尔干,最大的叫错热哈,花湖是居中的一个。若尔盖由草甸、草原、沼泽和花湖组成,数百亩水草地碧绿如茵,簇簇野花五彩斑斓,遍地牦牛如同散落在草原上的一颗颗黑珍珠,美丽的若尔盖宛如镶嵌在川西边界上一块瑰丽夺目的绿宝石。花湖烟波浩渺,水质清纯,河里生长繁衍着大量鲢鱼,湟鱼,鲍鱼,是重要的生态养殖区。
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吃过午饭,饭店老板请我们免费参观他的梅花鹿生态园,我觉得西北人蛮朴实的!
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从鹿苑转了一圈出来,顺理成章地走到了购物店,原来都是套路!
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下午六点开车抵达唐克镇,放下行李轻装上阵,今天的最后一站是到九曲黄河第一湾看落日。
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甘南也好,川西也罢,这边的紫外线实在是太强了,即使高倍防晒霜加全副武装,还是被晒伤了,现在出门基本是这个造型。
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九曲黄河第一湾位于四川阿坝藏族羌族自治州若尔盖县唐克镇,此处是四川、青海、甘肃三省交界处。
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黄河水缓缓流过唐克城区,经过索格藏寺,从木栈道开始攀登四公里,登上一座小山包,黄河九曲第一湾和金顶藏寺的美丽景象顿时跃入眼底。
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参观了几个藏寺,突然顿悟了,非常认同佛法道教里“无常”的真谛。日出日落,斗转星移,沧海桑田都可以变成黄土高原,巨犀猛兽也终成枯骨一具。人还有什么执念是放不下的!
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