【外刊D26】一份来自巴黎的复古穿搭指南
今日导读
在很多人看来，时尚圈的学问似乎包罗万象。如果你愿意，它几乎能进入生活的每个角落，不管是外在的衣着、配饰、鞋包，还是内在的审美、品位、气质，时尚圈人士对它们往往都会有高于常人的要求。而时尚圈又很难以捉摸，你永远不知道什么风格会引领下一波潮流，比如最近的时尚界，就张开双臂迎来了 70 年代的复古风。这种怀旧背后有着怎样的情愫？这种风格又有什么特质？我们跟着 Lala 老师来读一篇《卫报》的文章。
新闻原文
That 70s show: why the disco decade is back in fashion
There is a logical, mathematical explanation for why the 70s have been pronounced chic by Paris fashion week. The 90s are the new 70s, you see, and the 70s are the new 50s. It goes like this. When the 70s were the recent past, they were cringe-makingly close to home, and therefore easy to poke fun at.
Now, the 90s are the relatively recent past—and so 90s revivalism has become fashion’s go-to gag. The 70s, meanwhile, have slipped into rose-tinted memory, the embarrassing parts forgotten along the way. The decade is coming to stand for classic chic, in the way that the 50s previously did before being consigned to ancient history.
The 70s became headline news in Paris this week because of Hedi Slimane at Céline. Instead of going back to Old Céline, he went to Old Old Céline—an ultra-bourgeois late-70s version of what ladylike looks like, with attitude and great wedge boots. And the fashion industry looked at the collection and thought: ‘That’s exactly what I want to wear.’
It is hard to avoid plundering the 70s when its influence is everywhere on the catwalk, which means the trickle-down effect from show to pavement was already well under way on the streets of Paris.
So how did they wear it? Layered, mostly, and in a 70s palette of browns, greens and yellows. The art director Sofía Sanchez de Betak probably won the look. The thrown-together layering of tie, tweed blazer, trench and scarf in various shades of brown and grey was a direct reference to Annie Hall—bourgeois Manhattanite is something to aim for.
带着问题看讲解
在作者看来，为什么 70 年代的风格会受到巴黎时装周的青睐？
合成词 go-to 的意思是什么？
70 年代风格的穿搭主要选择哪些颜色？
新闻正文
That 70s show: why the disco decade is back in fashion
那场 70 年代风格的大秀：为什么属于迪斯科的那十年会重返时尚界
There is a logical, mathematical explanation for why the 70s have been pronounced chic by Paris fashion week. The 90s are the new 70s, you see, and the 70s are the new 50s. It goes like this. When the 70s were the recent past, they were cringe-makingly close to home, and therefore easy to poke fun at.
为什么 70 年代，会被巴黎时装周高调宣布为一个时髦别致的年代？关于这个问题，有一个符合逻辑和数学思维的解释。你看，90 年代其实就是新的 70 年代，而 70 年代其实就是新的 50 年代。背后的原理就是如此。当 70 年代时尚还是“不远的过去”时，它们尴尬到让人起鸡皮疙瘩，也因此，在当时很容易受到嘲笑。
Now, the 90s are the relatively recent past—and so 90s revivalism has become fashion’s go-to gag. The 70s, meanwhile, have slipped into rose-tinted memory, the embarrassing parts forgotten along the way. The decade is coming to stand for classic chic, in the way that the 50s previously did before being consigned to ancient history.
而现在，90 年代成为了那个相对而言“不远的过去”，也因此，90 年代复古潮变成了现在时尚界一说一个准的笑话。与此同时，关于 70 年代的回忆，则在不知不觉中染上了玫瑰色，尴尬的部分都遗忘在了流逝的时间中。这十年正渐渐成为经典时髦的象征，50 年代在成为历史之前，也曾是这样的象征。
The 70s became headline news in Paris this week because of Hedi Slimane at Céline. Instead of going back to Old Céline, he went to Old Old Céline—an ultra-bourgeois late-70s version of what ladylike looks like, with attitude and great wedge boots. And the fashion industry looked at the collection and thought: ‘That’s exactly what I want to wear.’
Céline（思琳）的设计师艾迪·斯理曼让 70 年代成为了本周巴黎的头条新闻。他没有让设计回到老的 Céline 风格，而是选择了更老的 Céline 风格——一个富有中产情调，70 年代末期版的淑女风设计，辅以自信的态度和伟大的坡跟靴。于是，整个时尚行业都看着这些时装，情不自禁地想到：“这正是我想要的穿搭。”
It is hard to avoid plundering the 70s when its influence is everywhere on the catwalk, which means the trickle-down effect from show to pavement was already well under way on the streets of Paris.
当 70 年代风格正在影响 T 台的每一个角落时，你很难避免“剽窃”这种风格。这就意味着从伸展台到人行道，这一时尚界的滴漏效应，早已出现在了巴黎的大街小巷。
So how did they wear it? Layered, mostly, and in a 70s palette of browns, greens and yellows. The art director Sofía Sanchez de Betak probably won the look. The thrown-together layering of tie, tweed blazer, trench and scarf in various shades of brown and grey was a direct reference to Annie Hall—bourgeois Manhattanite is something to aim for.
所以，巴黎街头的人到底是怎么穿成 70 年代风格的呢？大多都是叠穿，并且配色都是 70 年代穿搭中常见的颜色，各种棕色、绿色和黄色。美术指导索菲亚·桑切斯·德贝塔克可能赢得了这场穿搭比赛的桂冠。各种不同深浅的棕色和灰色的领带、毛呢短外套、风衣外套和围巾随意地堆叠，看起来有些不和谐。这一搭配直接参考了《安妮·霍尔》——生活在曼哈顿的中产阶级形象正是你需要达到的目标。
重点词汇
chic
/ʃiːk/
adj. 时髦的；别致的；优雅的
e.g.
例句：She is always so chic.
搭配短语：a chic restaurant
cringe-makingly
/ˈkrɪndʒ meɪkɪŋli/
adv. 使人尴尬地
e.g.
相关词汇：cringeworthy
close to home
令人尴尬
e.g.
例句：Her remarks about me were embarrassingly close to home.
poke fun at
嘲弄，开玩笑
e.g.
例句：He was poked fun at because he could not ride a bike.
revivalism
/rɪˈvaɪvəlɪzəm/
n. 复古倾向，复古主义
go-to
/ˈɡoʊ tuː/
adj.（指对象）寻求协助的，征询意见的
e.g.
搭配短语：go-to person
rose-tinted
/ˈroʊz tɪntɪd/
adj. 玫瑰色的
e.g.
同义词：rose-coloured
搭配短语：rose-tinted silks
consign
/kənˈsaɪn/
v. 把...置于
e.g.
搭配短语：consign sth. to（打发；放逐）
搭配短语：consign the letter to the waste-paper basket
ultra-bourgeois
/ʌltrə ˌbʊrˈʒwɑː/
adj. 超中产阶级的
e.g.
词根词缀：ultra-（超级的，极其的）
bourgeois 搭配短语：a traditional bourgeois family
attitude
/ˈætɪtuːd/
n.（行为或外貌上表现出的）个性；我行我素的作风
e.g.
英文释义：confident, sometimes aggressive behaviour that shows you do not care about other people's opinions
例句：She is a woman with attitude and talent.
plunder
/ˈplʌndər/
v. 窃取；剽窃
e.g.
例句：The rich provinces have been plunderedby the invaders.
trickle-down effect
滴漏效应
layered
/lerd/
adj. 分层的，层叠的
e.g.
派生词：layer（v. 分层放置）；layer（n. 层）
补充词汇知识
disco
n. 舞厅；一种流行舞曲
同义词：discotheque
logic
adj. 有逻辑的
mathematical
adj. 数学的
词性拓展：math（n. 数学）= mathematics
pronounce
v. 发音；正式地宣布
gag
n. 噱头；笑话
a version of sth.
某事的一个版本
ladylike
英文释义：like a lady
词根词缀：-like（像…一样）
派生词：godlike（adj. 像神一样）
wedge boots
坡跟靴
collection
n. 系列时装
catwalk
n. 模特走秀的 T 台
show
n. 时装秀
pavement
n. 人行道
under way
正在进行中
palette
n. 常用的颜色
例句：I choose a palette of natural and earthy colours.（我选了一组自然朴实的颜色）
win the look
赢得这场穿搭比赛
搭配短语：win the competition（赢得一场比赛）
look
n. 外表
近义词：appearance
thrown-together
adj. 随意搭配在一起的
相关词汇：throw sth. together（拿一些东西匆匆拼凑出）
tie
n. 领带
tweed
n. 粗花呢
blazer
n. 运动上衣；带有大徽章的夹克；休闲短西装
trench
n. 战壕
搭配短语：trench coat（战壕雨衣，风衣）
scarf
n. 围巾
various shades of...
不同深浅的某色
shades of 搭配短语：fifty shades of grey（《五十度灰》）
a reference to
借鉴某事
Manhattanite
相关词汇：Manhattan（n. 曼哈顿）
词根词缀：-ite（来自某地）
写作技巧
借代（metonymy）
借代，也叫转喻、借喻，是一种常见的修辞手法。它通过一个与事物本身密切相关的东西来指代它。比如说我们可以用白宫来借代美国总统。在这篇新闻中，from show to pavement，这个短语中，作者就用 show “时装秀”，借代了时尚圈的最顶层，用 pavement “人行道”借代了下游的大众。
学习资源
讲解中提到的电影：Fifty shades of grey（《五十度灰》）；Annie Hall（《安妮·霍尔》）
拓展阅读
滴漏效应（trickle-down effect）
滴漏效应，也被称为渗漏理论、涓滴效应。它是一个经济学概念，最早却是出自一位美国作家之口，威尔·罗杰斯（Will Rogers）在上个世纪 30 年代经济大萧条时曾调侃道：“把钱都给上层富人，希望它可以一滴一滴流到穷人手里。（money was all appropriated for the top in hopes that it would trickle down to the needy）。”
这一效应所支持的经济发展理念是：由经济增长带来的整个社会的总财富增加，才是救助穷人的最好方法，而不是由政府直接支援穷人。支持这种理论的政府，往往会给有钱人减免税，鼓励他们投资，进而带动经济增长，并且认为这样会让全社会得利。但一些经济学家认为，这样的思路反而会扩大贫富差距。
