#每天读一点服装史105篇# FROM GLAMOUR TO U

FROM GLAMOUR TO UTILITY

1929 - 1946

The Wall Street Crash in the fall of 1929 brought the Roaring Twenties to an abrupt halt.

Hemlines dropped suddenly while waistlines rose to a little above the natural waist—the reign of the youthful flapper was truly over.

DEPRESSION HITS, HEMLINES FALL 1930

“Austerity day wear” for women was angled and slim fitting, with wide shoulder pads and calf-length skirts.

During the day, the slimline silhouette was broken up and softened with clever seaming, belts, novelty buttons, deep cuffs, and pussy bows.

In the evening, the focus shifted from legs to plunging backs with designers such as Lanvin, Mainboucher, and Chanel producing shimmering, floor-length dresses.

FLYING DOWN TO RIO PARIS FRED ASTAIRE AND GINGER ROGERS FOR THE FIRST TIME. 1932

FASHION AT THE MOVIES

During the 1930s New York ready-to-wear designers developed a new style that seemed to embody the nation’s values.

Their practical approach resulted in easy-to-wear pieces that could be adapted to different occasions by mixing and matching.

At the opposite end of the scale, Hollywood designers Adrian, Walter Plunket, and Travis Banton created glamorous outfits for stars such as Jean Harlow, Joan Crawford, and Marlene Dietrich.

These Hollywood styles were arguably the biggest influence on fashion in the 1930s.

FIRST SHORTS AT WIMBLEDON 1934

EFFECTS OF THE WAR

The start of World War II in 1939 brought an end to lavish, excessive designs.

Many countries established a rationing system, trying to prevent the waste of scarce resources and ensure a fair distribution of garments.

Decorative features such as excessive pleating and lace were abandoned, leading to simplified styles that constituted a kind of civilian uniform.

Paris retained a skeletal couture industry after the invasion in 1940, but the rest of the world was cut off from French fashion dictates.

NYLON IS INVENTED BY WALLACE CAROTHERS AT DUPONT'S RESEARCH FACILITY. 1935

从魅力到实用

1929 - 1946

1929年秋天的华尔街金融危机，促使咆哮的二十年代嘎然而止。

下摆线骤然下降，而腰围则上升到自然腰线上一点，年轻女郎的统治时代已经正式结束。

MRS. WALLIS SIMPSON'S WEDDING DRESS 1936

女士的“吝啬日常服装”是有棱角并且贴身剪裁的，伴随着宽肩带和小腿半身裙。

在白天，细长的轮廓被打破，取而代之的是柔和的巧妙缝线，腰带，新奇按钮，深袖口与系带蝴蝶结衬衫。

在晚上，焦点从腿部转移到来自Lanvin，Mainboucher与Chanel等设计师制造的露背地板长度闪烁连衣裙。

ROSIE THE RIVETER IS THE STAR OF A SONG THAT PRAISES THE AMERICAN WOMEN WORKING IN FACTORIES. 1942

电影中的时尚

二十世纪30年代，纽约的成衣设计师开发出一种看起来能体现国家价值观的新风格。

他们的做法致使那些容易穿着的单品，可以通过混合和搭配来适应不同的场合。

小规模的，好莱坞设计师Adrian，Walter Plunket和Travis Banton为诸如Jean Harlow，Joan Crawford和Marlene Dietrich等明星都创造了迷人的战衣。

这些好莱坞风格可以说是二十世纪30年代时尚界的最大影响。

GONE WITH THE WIND 1939

战争的影响

1939年开始的第二次世界大战将奢侈，过度的设计终结。

许多国家建立了配给制度，旨在防止稀缺资源浪费与确保服装的公平分配。

装饰性特征例如过度褶皱与花边遭到遗弃，这催生出一种民用制服的简化风格来。

巴黎在1940年入侵后保留下了时装业的骨架，但世界其他地区都从法国时尚领导中被剥离出来了。

THE FIRST PARIS COLLECTIONS AFTER THE WAR FORESHADOW DIOR'S NEW LOOK OF 1947.