诺金酒店生蚝的故事
A story of oyster presented by David Hervé & NUO Hotel
(为了方便 David Hervé 等国际友人阅读,本文用英文写作,同时提供中文译文,全文约1200词。)
The French are remarkably passionate about oysters. The French Poet Leon Paul Fargue once wrote “ I love oysters, its like kissing the sea on the lips”. When the delicious mollusk is slurped off the shell, the mind’s eye of a true oyster lover might conjure up the images of the thousands of kilometres of beautiful French coastline. He (or her) may be feeling the cool Atlantic breeze wherever they are, and will surely celebrate this precious fantastic moment in life.
法国人对生蚝有着极致的迷恋。法国诗人莱昂-保罗-法格(Léon Paul Fargue)写过,“我爱吃生蚝,就像亲吻嘴唇上的大海”。当这只美味的软体动物被从一片壳中吸出来的时候,一个真正的生蚝爱好和的眼睛可能会浮现出数千公里美丽的法国海岸线的画面。无论他身处何地,都仿佛真切地感受到了大西洋的凉风,并且肯定会尽情地庆祝这宝贵的美妙时刻。
The west coast of France (from the English Channel to Pertuis d’Antioche), a legendary place with vast and blue landscape, is a wonderful place to farm oysters. Hence from here you can see there are already huge oyster beds. David Hervé surely understood the charm of here and associated people’s passion for oysters and the unique geography of the west French coast, produced the “Ideal Oyster” in his mind.
法国的西海岸(从英吉利海峡到昂蒂奥什海峡),这个有着广阔蓝色风景的传奇之地,是一个极佳的养殖生蚝的地方。所以在这里可以看到已经有许多巨大的生蚝养殖床。David Hervé 当然也清楚这里的魅力,并将人们对生蚝的热情和当地的独特地理环境结合到一起,养出了他心目中最理想的生蚝。
As one of the few artificial farmed oyster producer, David Hervé has long been respected not only by the Michelin-Star rewarded chefs for the “ideal oysters” he provided, but also by the whole oyster community for the new techniques he brought to the oyster industry. He has been keeping a very low density to farm oysters, and the weak density will allow the oysters to grow in total harmony with the long blue coastline.
作为欧洲为数不多的人工生蚝养殖专业户,David Hervé 不仅因为长期为米其林餐厅提供高品质的生蚝而被米其林餐厅主厨们所尊重,更因为他为生蚝养殖业引进的新技术赢得了整个生蚝养殖界的尊敬。他一直坚持低密度养殖生蚝,平均每平方米两只,使生蚝能在长长的蓝色海岸线里和谐生长。
法国生蚝养殖专家David Hervé
David is also a long-term partner who supplies NUO Hotel Beijing with fabulous oysters from France. In this brilliant spring, he has once again come to NUO Hotel, bringing with more varieties of his fresh ideal oysters (including Peter Pan, Boudeuse, Fine de Claire, Ronce, Royale and Sauvage), offered the diners a series of incredible French flavours.
David 也是北京诺金酒店长期合作的荣誉匠人,一直为诺金提供来自法国的优质生蚝。这个春季David Hervé 再次携多个品种的理想生蚝来到诺金,引领食客们感受从鲜美多姿的法兰西风味。
David Hervé’s team also introduced the labeling standard of the oyster’s size, we tasted oysters with different size from the smallest “Calibre 5” (30g ~ 45g) to the largest "Calibre 00” (over 200g). We also learnt how to know the age of an oyster. Just like the trees, Oysters will grow a circle of new shell per year, just similar to the trees. So we can know “how old an oyster is” via counting the number of circles on its shell.
David Hervé 先生的团队还介绍了法国生蚝的尺寸标号标准,我们品尝了从最小的5号到最大的00号不同尺寸的生蚝。我们还学习了如何辨别生蚝的生长年龄。原来,生蚝也像树一样是有年轮的。与树木类似,每过一年,生蚝就会长出一圈新的壳。所以我们只需要通过数生蚝的壳上面有几个圈就能知道这只生蚝几岁了。
Eating an oyster takes no more than half a minute, but you need to understand that an oyster farmer may has spent probably 4 years on a single oyster. When an oyster is a baby, it’s only as big as a pepper corn at the beginning of its life. During 4 years the oyster farm take care of it, accommodate it into appropriate seawater. The baby oyster grows in an ideal environment, where fresh water converges with sea water, high rainfalls, and favourable algae… Finally a sweet alchemy takes place: after around 4 years, we obtain a pretty little shell nicely shaped during its slow growth in cold water. And it was touched and turned over at least a hundred times before it finally lands in the plate ready to be eaten. The oldest oyster we eat is probably already 10 years old.
吃一只生蚝只需要不到半分钟,但是把生蚝养到可以吃的大小至少需要4年。一只生蚝幼崽起初大约只有胡椒粒那么大。在4年当中蚝农要仔细照料它,把它安置到合适的海水里。小蚝在在一个理想的环境里生长,那里海水和淡水混合,雨量充沛,有着丰富的有益海藻。然后一个甜蜜的奇迹发生了, 大约4年之后,我们得到了一个漂亮的小小的壳,冷水之中的缓慢生长给了它漂亮的姿态。在它最终躺在盘子里被享用之前,它至少要被蚝农翻动和触摸上百次。最终才得到丰腴而有着独特味道的肉质。我们吃的最年长的生蚝甚至已经有十岁了。
The most important aim of David is to spend more of his work at the farm to produce better oysters. Except fly around the world to sell his oysters, David will walk around his oyster farm everyday, spend some time alone with his oysters, touch them, and touched by the sea breeze on the cheek, and may lost in the splendid scenery. There is dark red color on David’s cheek caused by the sea breeze and sunshine, but shining with geniality smile all the time.
We need to say “Thanks” to his work, hence we could have such a poetic joy on the tongue. This fabulous experience may be a little bit expensive, but it’s worth to experience.
花更多的精力养出更加完美的生蚝是 David Herve 最重要的目标。除了飞到世界各地推销他的生蚝之外,David 每天都会到他的养殖场走一走,花一些时间独自与他的生蚝相处,抚摸着他们,脸颊也被海风抚摸着,可能就迷失在美丽的景色中了。David 的脸上有着海风和阳光洗礼过的深色,但时刻保持着温暖而亲切的笑容。
感谢他勤劳的工作,我们才拥有这样富有诗意的舌尖享受。这份奇妙的经历可能有一点小贵,但绝对值得体验。
北京诺金酒店餐饮运营总监尼古拉斯用生蚝现场烹制的特色料理
The Director of Operations Food & Beverage NUO Hotel, Nikolaos Lekkas used the oyster to create the amazing dish which was a surprise highlight at the event.
北京诺金酒店餐饮运营总监尼古拉斯用生蚝现场烹制特色料理作为活动惊喜亮点。
(一个新加坡的专售法国海鲜的在线商家,内地部分城市可能可以买到)
诺金本次活动特推的6种生蚝
Peter Pan 产地:南法
Peter Pan的细腻与香甜,回甘巧入你心,含在口里如有轻微的海风拂来。采用澳大利亚技术养成的日本风味法国生蚝,可谓David Hervé品牌的生命。
Peter Pan Origin: Southen France
Peter Pan offers you a more refined and sweet taste A Japanese-inspired French oyster made with Autralian technique,Creativity to its highest level to the service of excellence: DH’s life.
Boudeuse 产地:奥莱龙岛
La Boudeuse是大海带来的珍宝之一,被誉为海之小王子,肉质十分丰腴,紧实而精致。
Boudeuse Origin: Oleron
La Petite from the Ocean! The oyster that didn’t want to become an adult #kidforlife. Its flesh keeps on growing into its non-growing shell (full & compact)
Fine de Claire产地:不列塔尼(法国西北部地区)
Fine De Claire是永恒的经典,也是全欧洲最自然最纯正的生蚝,已成为法国历史的一部分。精薄的肉质以及入口一瞬间强劲的扑面而来的海洋气息,使其成为终极餐点生蚝; 只需闭目静享美妙时刻。
Fine de Claire Origin: Brittany
The Ultimate Classic! The most sold oyster on French territory, FDC is part of French history. Its briny flavor is an invitation to travel to wild Brittany, just close your eyes
Ronce Origin: Oleron
平和而美妙,Ronce名字的来源正是David Herve出生地所在,正因生长之处的特别让它拥有我们孩提时于当中嬉戏玩耍过的河流的味道。
Ronce Origin: Oleron
Equilibirum & Balance! Ronce is the name of the place where David was born and where he grew up, Aged 100m from his house, Ronce has the flavor of the river where we was swimming during his childhood
Royale 产地:诺曼底
有着法国生蚝女王之称的Royale是生蚝界最特别的存在,手工修剪使其口感达到最佳,松软又脆爽的口感是她成为一件诱人的奢侈品。
Royale Origin: Normandy
The Queen of French Oysters! Just like a dress by Dior, Royale is the most tailor-made of all oysters, Aged at 5pc/ m2, its crunchiness makes of her a piece of luxury into a shell.
Sauvage 产地:深海
10年野生,只为回归自然本源。身处大西洋最深处,接受大自然纯粹的味道。
Sauvage Origin: Deep Ocean
Story: Ten years wild growth. Into the Wild! Travel to the deepest side of the Atlantic ocean, where nature rules the French waters, and indulge yourself with pure flavour of ocean.
本次活动之后,Fine de Claire 和 Peter Pan 两个品种的生蚝在诺金酒店悦尚全日制餐厅 N’ Joy 长期供应,Fine de Claire, Peter Pan 和 La Boudeuse 三个品种的生蚝在诺金酒店大堂吧 Lobby Lounge 长期供应。
北京诺金海鲜狂欢于2018.4.13在诺金大堂吧Lobby Loung拉开帷幕
地址:北京市朝阳区将台路甲2号诺金酒店一层
大堂吧 Lobby Lounge
悦尚全日制餐厅 N‘ Joy